Got a call from the dealer this morning. Your Towncar is all set. They closed at 4PM and I knew I wouldn't make it by then so I paid over the phone. They left the key under the mat and locked the car.
I got a ride and arrived at 4:15PM. Opened the car, found the key, put it in the ignition, turned it... nothing but a few clicks. The battery was dead. How did they not know that when they put it in the lot?
Of course we didn't have jumper cables. Luckily, the sales people were still there and a salesmen jumped it. Drove it home, let it run for 15 or so minutes, shut it off, tried starting it..nothing.
Now I gotta wait until Monday. How did they not know? What did they do to kill the battery?
When it was running, it ran better than ever.
A possibility : Fuel filter is normally mounted on the car frame somewhere, Condensation/water in Your gas can freeze and plug the filter, thus , starving the engine for fuel.
Good Shooting
Lindy
One thing to watch for if you have the 5.4l engine is wetness or what looks like it has been wet on he coolant crossover tube on the passenger front cylinder(#1). Staining on the head is a sign the intake is cracked(stupid plastic intake) where the coolant crossover tube O ring sits. It can seep out the front but it can also run into #1 cylinder and do nasty things to the engine. Same if there is a really faint smell of antifreeze on starting. It can sit there and just barely seep then the lip the O ring sits in cracks all the way and falls off... KNOWN issue with those engines, seems to happen between 130k and 150k miles...
I brought the battery to the dealer. They tested it - it was toast. Very dead. I bought a new battery, brought it home, put it in, turned the ignition - nothing. First thing this morning I tried it again - started like a brand new car.
Starter maybe? Or is it haunted?
Its a sometimes car!! sometimes it does sometime does not
I'd be inclined to put new battery cables on it just for peace of mind .
They don't last forever ...
My 96 was all plastic and cracked. The replacement was the aluminum/plastic. Never leaked while I had it but from this post I guess it wasn’t the best fix either.
I was told the poor engineering design by ford using one of the alternator mounting bolts through the intake was the real issue because of flex and stress. I also agree with Mary expansion rates of both materials were not the best choice, but probably the least expensive band aid.
To the OP, hows that baby running now ? Starting up ok ?
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Well, I put the new battery in it and it wouldn't start. Called for a tow, the driver arrived, and it started. I had it towed anyways to my local mechanic (not back to the dealer) and he kept it for a day. He called and said he started it 20 times during the day, no problems. I drove it home and it's been fine since. I'm sure whatever it was will be back (starter, cables, parniffalin pin?). But, for now, it's good to go. It runs like a new car.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |