Anyone having luck finding any percussion caps, my Google fu is turning up none.
Thanks
Mike
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Anyone having luck finding any percussion caps, my Google fu is turning up none.
Thanks
Mike
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes there is a gun shop some 40+ miles SSE of me who said they have never ran out of them.
I picked up a couple when I was down there around the first of the year.
RP
Monte Walsh "You have No idea how little I care".
YES! I was digging around in my shop last week and turned up 3500 of them. Looks like I'll be doing a lot of C&B revolver shooting this summer.
Can't find any here either, and I just bought a new cap and ball revolver. Guess it will just stay in the box.
Tap a Cap says they’re in stock and ready to ship. Seems like a man’s best option these days.
”We know they are lying, they know they are lying, they know we know they are lying, we know they know we know they are lying, yet they are still lying.” –Aleksandr Isayevich Solzhenitsyn
My Straight Shooters thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-shooter
The Pewter Pictures and Hallmarks thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-and-hallmarks
I have seen CCI caps at Scheels stores recently. But my friends are all looking for Remington, GW
poorman Go to the 22 reloader site .They have a #11 and #10 percussion cap maker. They also sell the priming powders I have the #11 and caps from it fit on everything including my revolvers. Not too high priced .
I have the 22 reloaded kit, it works very well.
I was at a Pre-98 & Muzzleloading show this weekend, one fellow had RWS and CCI percussion caps, but was rather pricey on both. He claimed Remington under new ownership has stopped production of percussion caps, however the new website shows them with a price. Odd thing to do if they were going to stop production. https://www.remington.com/muzzleloading/
A lot of misinformation out right now. I would by they minimum needed to get buy and stock up later when they plentiful.
Boolits Feedback <> Gunbroker Feedback
Just remember son, many times free advise is worth what you pay for it. ~ My Dad
Bluegrass...the speed metal of country music!
For awhile there musket caps were around ,now not so much.
”We know they are lying, they know they are lying, they know we know they are lying, we know they know we know they are lying, yet they are still lying.” –Aleksandr Isayevich Solzhenitsyn
My Straight Shooters thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-shooter
The Pewter Pictures and Hallmarks thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-and-hallmarks
I tried mine with the paper caps but they wouldn’t fire even bp!
Even used 4!
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The paper roll caps ain't like they were when I was a kid.
They use to go BANG when fired.
The ones now just go Poof.
That is why I switched to Prime All mixed by Weight and not Volume to make H48 compound.
I also make F42 priming compound from chemicals that come in Prime All.
I actually prefer the F42 compound
I got some stuff from them. I thought the .22 reloader came with, but it didn’t. Need to place an order for prime-all. What’s the difference in the formulas? Is by weight more accurate?
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If you are talking about the difference between H 48 and F 42
Basically one , the H48 is 4 chemicals same as the prime all.
The F42 uses one less chemical .
Which is basically ground glass.
Both should be mixed by Weight, not just by volume.
But the volume mix for the prime all works .
It is just more accurate and consistent if done by weight.
But the prime all Scoop Mix method is great for those that do not have access to a fine scale.
I did post the mixing weight percentages on another thread on this forum about Priming Compounds.
Last edited by LAGS; 03-14-2022 at 11:07 AM.
Thanks
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I have been making the primer caps from shotgun primer cups at very small cost for tools. You start with apiece of 1/4" thick piece of flat steel maybe 1 1/2" by 3". You could get by with smaller if you have something solid to set it on. Drill two holes 1/2"or more apart, one 1/4" and one #11 drill. Countersink the 1/4" (5/16 drill or better an end mill) hole deep enough to hold a shotgun primer from moving around. Taper the top of the #11 hole about half way through. HF sells a taper reamer for under $10 and a punch set for about the same.
Now set a shotgun primer on top of the 1/4" hole flash hole up and drive out the cup with a small punch or nail (.090 or smaller). Use a 5/32 punch to flatten the firing pin dent. You now have a cup that will work but it is a loose fit. To tighten it you can squash the sides a bit or use the 5/32 punch to drive the cup through the #11 hole. I don't know what I.D. size a #10 cap is but a shotgun cup could be made a little bigger or smaller without much effort.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |