Hi, first post here. I just got what appears to be a 1972 Glenfield 30.30. On top of the receiver, there are 4 drilled and tapped holes. Are these factory or did someone try to attempt a hokey scope mount? Thanks for any replies.
Bigblock
|
   
   
|
|
Hi, first post here. I just got what appears to be a 1972 Glenfield 30.30. On top of the receiver, there are 4 drilled and tapped holes. Are these factory or did someone try to attempt a hokey scope mount? Thanks for any replies.
Bigblock
My guess is they are factory. The Marlin started drilling and tapping the 336 for scopes in 1956. Not sure about the Glenfields 30A's but wood and finish should be the only difference.
2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
"Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
– Amber Veal
"The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
- Wayne Dyer
Mine has the rail mounted on top,4 screws are holding it down so I think your GTG
Thanks so much for the replies. I did not know what to expect and misspoke using the word hokey. Thanks again for your time and for helping a rifle newbie!
Bigblock,
You planning to set up an optic? If so, thoughts on what power optic. Never been a fan of optics on levers, then I got old. Should be a shooter, especially with cast. Post loads as you get this one dialed in.
Respectfully,
Bula
The Glenfield models began in 1964, well after Marlin began D&T on their lever actions.
You've got a neat piece of history. Enjoy!
A weaver k2.5-1 would be perfect on her. Weaver base and detachable rings in low.... mmm classic mounting and optics for a classic rifle.
Believe it or not Warne bases are shorter than weaver. The two piece Warne bases put the rings in just the right place.Originally Posted by Bazoo
Rick
Shorter meaning they mount the scope closer to the action.
Rick
I have a Leupold VX-3 1-5x20 in Burris rings and bases on my Glenfield 30. Yes, a $400.00 scope on a $200.00 rifle!
Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.
I think of it more this way, you have a $600 rifle with great glass that can shoot!
Bula
Not a $200 rifle anymore.
I have a weaver k2.5-1 on a beater marlin 22. The scope is worth as much as the gun.
I believe they are factory too. If I am not mistaken I believe they will be 8x40 screw holes in the receiver. Good guns.
I have a Marlin 30A with a rail on it. Mounted on the rail is a Marlin 4x32 scope. Great cast shooter and the scope is really clear. Bought it from a friend in the early 70’s for $125 plus two boxes of ammo. I don’t think he shot it more a 5 times.
One. Nice feature of the M 30 A is that Marlin used the steel end cap on the forend instead of a barrel band.
I have found out the reason why the 375’s, 444’s and 45-70 don’t use the barrel band is because the screw bends due to the heavier recoil, the end cap is stronger.
Jedman
Factory drilled and tapped, 8-40 threads, standard for Marlin. Marlin bases/mounts come with the proper screws. I have an old Leupold VX II 2-7 on one, a couple others with different Leopold, Burris, and Nikon Monarch's, some of my 'range' lever guns have 4-16x and 4.5-14.5x scopes, just to see how well they really shoot way out past 100 yards. A rifle can only be as accurate as the sighting equipment, trigger and shooter. Open sights limit the rifle to the shooter's vision, receiver/peep sights are better than open in good light, scopes work in dark timber, early morning and other difficult light. If you believe iron sights are faster you scope setup needs review, eye relief, ring height and scope power and quality all come into play, AND practice throwing the rifle up, acquiring the scope sight picture. Lots of good load data for the 30-30, one of the best cast bullet calibers. Old Weaver's lack the lens coatings and many other advances the newer scopes have. Looking though an older Weaver, then a current Vortex, Burris or even a Simmons shows the improvement. I've got old El Paso Weaver's from the 60's and 70's, the new technology is better, kind of like a land line or flip phone versus a smart phone. I do have a couple peep sighted levers, I carry them when it is raining or snowing so hard you can't keep the scope clear of snow or rain, but snow will clog a peep sight too. Lots of good fun with a lever 30-30.
I have one of those rifles it is exactly like you all have described ,mine has a oak leaf carving in the stock. Bought it for $200.00 a number of years ago. It has a Weaver 4X scope and will take 10 for 10 pigs on the silhouette line with the Hornady Leverolution factory ammo which was surprise to me and have since stocked up on it and powder and bullets as well . Mine is a Montgomery Wards rifle a bit nicer than most Marlins.
I think various department stores commissioned Winchester and Marlin to make them rifles with their names on them and spec’d out various features to separate themselves from the others with the same basic gun.
This rifle will shoot sub-1" groups with it's favorite load so it deserves good glass. Bought it in a pawn shop for $200.00 which was a high price at the time for anything with the Glenfield name on it. Very glad I bought it!
Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.
Wow, thank you guys so much for all of the comments, suggestions and aid! I have thought I would like to put a scope on this 30A. I have read very little so far, but did read an article that suggested using the higher WEAVER 1-Inch Steel Lock Mounts for a Marlin 336 (30A). That way you could still use the open sights if needed, quick action taken on a charging bear, etc. or still use the scope for further out work. (A little dramatic, but sure it has happened at least once to someone before) Sounds like I really might need to revisit that thought from the comments here. For a scope, I was thinking something newer like Vortex Crossfire II 2-7×32. Figured that would be enough magnification since most shots on these guns are taken only out to 100 yards or so. I so appreciate the suggestions and would love any further thoughts!
Kind Regards,
Bigblock
One other thing I have ran into over the years. A lot of the newer scopes have much shorter center body and a lot of the older style base mount set ups and using straight rings the scope will not even fit into rings. I would suggest choose your optic, confirm eye relief distance, cheek weld and then work out mounting system. Using a full picatinny rail will allow a lot of options and easier to change the screwed on top stuff in future if desired.
The way it should be…in many cases! A perfect scope!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posting Permissions
| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
Reply With Quote