I tried coating, it doesn't fit in my system very well. While it isn't difficult, it isn't super easy either, as evidenced by the mountain of threads on coating problems people have. To be fair, plenty of people have lube issues too. There's ways to make anything fast. As I said, coating doesn't fit my system of casting. The way to do it would be to do large batches all at once. It will never be as fast to coat as to lube, but close enough to not matter. Here's the differences as I saw them, or at least perceive them.
Coating pros
Minimal fouling, zero lead, if you use the right coating, and bake them right (some coatings will foul)
Minimal smoke when shooting
No concerns with bullet storage, should last about forever.
Reportedly minimal change in performance with temperature
Coating cons
More involved to apply, both knowledge, and equipment
Requires electricity
generally less accurate
Melting down bad ones is a smokey, undesirable thing
Lube pros
Infinitely adjustable for conditions, allows you to see deficiencies in your loads, can generally be more accurate
Easier and faster to apply. Especially if you get a Star sizer
Requires no electricity to make, or to apply
Does not effect bullet dimensions
Lube is the only way to turn a casting into a useable bullet within 30 minutes.
It's easy to change lubes at will, and melted down bullets smell good.
Lube cons
Smokes more, if that matters to you
Temperature changes its properties
If a poor lube is used, poor accuracy and or fouling can occur
You have to be more careful with bullet storage
Unsure if pro or con
Coating adds diameter; could be a good thing, but more often adds it where you don't want it
Lube is more prone to allow fouling, but that usually means something is wrong with your load. (undersized bullet, inappropriate alloy, etc.)
Last edited by megasupermagnum; 12-23-2021 at 01:06 AM.
Ya forgot a couple big ones!
Cost; lube as your describing needs costly luber. "Star" was your recommendation.
Its 2021 man, needing electricity isnt any kinda negative.
Coated bullets allow use of far softer alloy. Greatly reducing to eliminating a large learning curve, that is finding proper/appropriate alloys, for new casters. Harder alloys are also more costly & not required for most coated bullets.
Gas checks are REQUIRED for higher velocities when lubing. NOT SO for coated in most any handgun. Farther reducing cost to coat.
Less accuracy is completely non factual & unfounded.
"Remelting coated smokes" really... & tossing a lubed bullet in the pot sprouts daisy's? MOOT, both smoke when re melt. But I must admit, lubed do smell better.
Ill offer Time savings is largely moot as well. Cause sizing ( required in both is per piece. Costing can be done basket hundreds of pieces at a time. Besides the fact that most of us enjoy the process ( both) and do not consider to be a time sensitive matter.
Lastly lube itself has cost and many make there own at additional cost. Time & effort. None of which is needed for coating. Farther dwindling this time savings many claim. (Moot)
Ya see the vast majority of us casters was lubers first before coaters. So we know full well both sides.
Neither is wrong or Hands down "better" its personal preference. Its a GOOD THING to have options.
Merry Christmas all
CW
Last edited by cwlongshot; 12-24-2021 at 07:24 AM.
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CW, a good post.
One more "pro" -addendum: after coating you'll never touch bare lead again. Size,sort,pack,load sealed bullets.
Started tumbling with LLA, then ESPC, HiTek, BLL. All work good for me. I prefer PC and cook on a hot plate so I can stand up the 30 cal rifle bullet. FPS and MOA aren't much different than lubed. Shot 50 ish rnds of PC 40sw, cleaned the barrel this morning - dry patch and just a little powder residue came out, nice shiny bore. Loaded 100 rnds of HiTek coated for the 40 last nite. Works just as good. My 40 loads are soft alloy and pushed ~1k fps.
Whatever!
I am currently using both PC and conventional lube. Most of my 9's have tight throats or short leades and the PC does not play well with the nose. The RCBS boolit that I use for the 270 is a nose/bore rider and will not chamber with PC. The 30-30 and the 223's are a different story. They love the PC, although conventional lube has worked in them as well. It was cheap to set up for PC, I still use the Star to size those boolits.
I have been powder coating for years .45 Colt, 9mm, .40 etc. I used it as an excuse to buy a Harbor Freight powder coating setup for around $70 so I could powder coat other stuff. Never had a problem with lead or plastic in the barrels. I also get funny looks at the range when I use red powder.
Stay away from flat or satin finish powders as many can be abrasive, especially Harbor Freight's flat black.
Powder coat is easier, more convenient, and cheaper to set up for than lube sizing, which is why I chose it.
I did not want to buy a separate press for bullet sizing.
I did not want to handle lead bullets while loading, or lead bullets with lube on them.
Overall, powder coating may not save time over a lube sizer, but it saves a tremendous amount of work.
Last edited by 414gates; 02-05-2022 at 04:31 PM.
You Know, they both work.
I have a lot of bullets that I have lubed with Lee Liquid Alox, they work great.
I got into the powder coating mainly because you can produce some pretty awesome looking bullets with it.
The powder coated bullets are a joy to handle at the range, like factory ammo, lubed bullets not so much, but not a big deal either.
Will I throw away my Lee Liquid Alox? Hell no.
Right now, I am into powder coating, tomorrow, who knows.
Both methods work and work well.
So, which every way you like, go with it.
Either method produces good bullets.
The main thing is to have fun.
As they say variety is the spice of life, so do both!
Check out Columbia Coatings CHROMA CHROME!!
https://rumble.com/vtbpwb-chroma-chrome.html
https://rumble.com/vtwddy-time-lapse...rome-cure.html
Unbelievable looking and preforming powder!!! Lone Ranger/ Werewolf bullets Extraordinaire!!
CW
NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.
Come visit my RUMBLE & uTube page's !!
https://www.RUMBLE.com/user/Cwlongshot
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I've been meaning to try powder coat for awhile. I've got some powder and airsoft BB's(grandsons outgrew) on the shelf. Just never took the time. I have loaded a lot of PC boolits. There is a commercial caster/powder coater just down the road. I've gone thru a couple thousand of his product with complete satisfaction. He casts in about 3 auto casting machines and powder coats in what looks like a cement mixer. His oven is a continuous process rather than batch. I'm almost at the point of deciding that buying from him for the bulk of my most used pistol bullets is the answer. I enjoy the casting process too much to give it up.
Tumble lubing or size & lube works well for me. Both can get messy.
John
W.TN
Used to enhance static electricity when shaking/tumbling the boolits.
Attachment 296702
https://www.amazon.com/Evike-Airsoft...s%2C494&sr=8-3
Mustang
"In the beginning... the patriot is a scarce man, and brave and hated and scorned. When his cause succeeds, the timid join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." - Mark Twain.
Would you believe that they are be bees used in airsoft guns
It's another tool in your toolbox.
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BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
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