Bigman, I use a light machine oil like 3n1 or Singer sewing machine oil (Walmart) on my thumb and fore finger when I size with the Lee push through dies and it makes the whole process easier. Of course if you use a Lyman style sizer to apply lube I don't use the oil. Pretty good looking boolits, let us know how they shoot.
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us! The more I travel, the more I like right where I am.
Loaded up the 38/200 and 8mm mauser pills to try out, the 38/200 look to lead the bore a little so I’m going to try to put a GC on before I PC next time but they’re also only moving probably about 450-500 FPS. Then the 8mm mauser I tested 13gr of red dot and 16 gr of 2400. I think I like red dot better as it was flatter shooting (still had to set the sights to 600 yards and 800 yards respectively for shooting at 200 yards), it also had less recoil and was quieter. Granted they were both much much quieter and softer shooting than any normal full power load. I haven’t tried anything else yet but I’m gonna try unique, 700-X and titegroup for the 8mm mauser as well.
What are you shooting the 38 S&W's in. If they are leading you might want to try them closer to .361+. I have been through the 38 S&W leading problems and the ones I had that leaded were because of too small of a boolit. The Webley I had finally quit leading at .362. My little 33-1 shoots great at .361 with no leading at all. I had to buy 2 boxes of factory ammo to have brass for it and I was going to just shoot them up but after less that 20 rnds, the barrel was almost a smooth bore from lead. I finally pulled the remaining 80 or so and tossed them in the pot but not before I mic'ed them. .358 was the reading.
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us! The more I travel, the more I like right where I am.
FWIW, Singer (and many other brands of sewing machine oil) are just mineral oil. You can get it just about anywhere. If you want a nice smelling work area get the baby bottom stuff I usually use the food grade cause I always have a couple of bottles in the kitchen.
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us! The more I travel, the more I like right where I am.
I cleaned the revolver last night and just a few strokes of a nylon brush got almost all the fouling out and then a few more strokes of a wet patch got everything else so I guess it was just a fast build up of carbon since it didn’t take much effort to clean out. I checked the K98 as well and it was spotless from what I could tell.
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Yes it did have a heavy pull. and was about as accurate as a slingshot, in my hands at least. The timing and cylinder lockup on mine was good. I traded it a few yrs ago before the price of one went sky high. Story of my life, wait until the price is ABOUT to soar and sell cheap!
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us! The more I travel, the more I like right where I am.
No worry brother. You wont loose a single cent on it.
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us! The more I travel, the more I like right where I am.
4min is not enough. check the instructions for your powder. Basically most powders need to bake for around 12-15min, but that is after the bullets themselves have come up to temperature, which is why most people bake around to 20min mark, to allow the bullets to come up to temp. You should be fine once you get your bullets baked all the way.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |