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Thread: Staining maple

  1. #41
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    On the Colorado River in Arizona
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    Quote Originally Posted by 357maximum View Post
    Hangfire..I made a batch..seems to work well...another tool in the belt...thank you


    Does your mix come out a little green looking in the jar?


    BTW that is one sweet looking rifle...nice
    No green, almost black.

    Thanks on the rifle comment, was and may be the last one I made, it is a .54 with a Getz barrel.

  2. #42
    Boolit Master
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    Mar 2005
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    On the Colorado River in Arizona
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    Quote Originally Posted by 357maximum View Post
    WOW

    I never stop being impressed by the talented bunch of individuals that land here. That is some durn fine looking geetars. I am going to try my blended alcohol stain concoction for my first go round with the underhammer......then go from there. I made up a couple batches of dyed aqua fortis I am currently testing on some blocks. I wanted to make another batch of aqua fortis but I broke my retort,,,gravity. My distilled fortis is weaker than I figure/guess the boughten stuff is....but I am just doing a multiple pass thing to compensate..........we will see when my test pieces have aged a bit. I am in no hurry on this endeavor.

    WOW The guns/guitars/machinery etc pics posted here both inspire and humiliate me.................unreal.

    Aqua Fortis, AKA nitric acid. Here is a hint for a readily available no hassle aqua fortis, take a look at the #1 ingredient in Birchwood Casey Plumb Brown, it is nitric acid. I have had very good luck using the Plumb Brown diluted with distilled water to desired strength for staining maple stocks for a lighter or darker color.

  3. #43
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    The Island of Misfit Toys
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hang Fire View Post
    Aqua Fortis, AKA nitric acid. Here is a hint for a readily available no hassle aqua fortis, take a look at the #1 ingredient in Birchwood Casey Plumb Brown, it is nitric acid. I have had very good luck using the Plumb Brown diluted with distilled water to desired strength for staining maple stocks for a lighter or darker color.
    Actually Nitric Acid water is not all that hard to make from Potassium Nitrate and reduced battery acid....just have to have a chemist's clue and be careful.

    I am actually starting to like the looks of another process I picked up off the net.

    Step one coat stock with a weak mix of lye/water..let sit a few mins on warm approaching hot stock wait 5- 15 mins.

    Step two coat stock with vinegar to nautralize...wait 15 mins

    Step three coat with plain water daub off excess let dry.

    I wet sanded very lightly with 400 grit between steps and am very pleased with the depth I can peer into the wood. I have a few sample pieces getting exposed to different climates in the house and in the barn both in light and out....just waiting to see what happens. On one set I added dye made from boiled osage orange sawdust...I am really liking the looks of that yellowish/brown I got from that process........testing for color fastness right now and it is seeming to hold it. Basically right now I am just systematically PLAYING to see what I can do with things.

    I thank ye all for the ideas.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check