North of Ogden is Smith and Edwards. They care both real BP and caps. No idea if they have any in stock at this time though. Also do a search for the Free Mountain Trappers. They meet once a month in Ogden. They may be able to help you out.
North of Ogden is Smith and Edwards. They care both real BP and caps. No idea if they have any in stock at this time though. Also do a search for the Free Mountain Trappers. They meet once a month in Ogden. They may be able to help you out.
Aim small, miss small!
I have a few friends with Pedersoli made flintlocks. They are very happy with them. I have an original antique flintlock and wondering when I buy my next gun, if I shouldn’t get a reproduction from them. Be sure to get a newer gun for your first one. Original ones could have wear problems that will make them more difficult to learn on. You will probably have to pay more than $1000, for a new one though. At least you do over here.
I happened to find out there are a couple of older gentleman who live east of me in Utah that have a long history of building historically accurate hawken style rifles as well as many other styles. I'm going to try to contact them and see if they can show me their rifles and around their shop!
Now , That would be a perfect move.
Good luck on what you see.
If I recall correctly, Hansen mentions in his book examining an original .62 Hawken with a very slow twist, something like 1-120” or similar, which was shot multiple times and found to like heavy charges, on the order of 150 grains FFg with a patched ball. Accuracy was along the lines of 4” or so at 200 yards.. His conclusion was that it could easily take the largest of Western plains game, to include elk, buffalo and grizz.
I have always thought that Thompson Center rifles were well made, reliable, and good value for money. I'm speaking here of the traditional line - I have no experience with the modern in-line stuff.
My first BB rifle was a 50 cal Hawken and a real jewel it was for elk out to 100 yds as I could get good groups to that distance and it hit pretty hard IMO- Later, I had this very nice 40 cal caplock made by Ted Fellows that was a great deer rifle out to 50 yds. Right now, I have a remington 700 in-line liking both it's accuracy and ease of use.
being from Utah and all, the OP might be lucky enough to stumble onto a Jonathan Browning Mountain Rifle
..
I've not heard of those before, but sound nice. Browning always seems to turn out high quality rifles
When it comes to flintlocks, you can't afford cheap.
You can learn how to knap flint, the library is free and there are books on the subject that you can check out. Also look for YouTube videos.
On rifles, look for a Kibler rifle kit. https://kiblerslongrifles.com/
There are kits from all over TOW TVM and others all can be had for different skill levels in putting together , and yes most of us are aware of how the crescent butts are meant to be shot , but heavy and large caliber still add up to recoil .
Flints can still be purchased by the dozen at some places and yes they can be knapped , you can still find percussion caps here and there and musket caps also , prices are up supply is down .
If you can inlet and cut dovetails , do threading and finish work you can save some money and have all American parts , Those Browning rifles were nice looking , saw a new in the box awhile ago on gunbroker , price was not bad .
Most barrels are round ball twist , have not went shopping for parts in a few years , for a first gun Thompson Centers with the 1-48 twist sound closest to fitting the bill , add sight on tang if wanted .
I'm working on hand inletting a stock for my bolt gun right now! Boy is it slow.
I've never cut dovetails into barrels for sights, but I bet I could do it. The key on this stuff is going as slow as needed to make sure it's correct and stopping before you screw up if it doesn't seem right. Books and the internet university are really helpful.
I've been watching a guy build a long rifle step by step on rumble. It's from a plank, and the barrel wasn't dove tailed or anything and didn't have the vent drilled, so nearly from scratch, save for the parts being made. It's really helpful and interesting and has me confident I could build one the same way. It just might take me a long while to acquire all the necessary hand tools
If you want to try something Slow and Tedious , try shaping the butt stock on a ML for a brass Crescent buttplate.
I am installing one on a stock right now that came with a flat buttplate.
Lots of angles and you have to watch all sides as you progress or it will be out of line.
This one isn't quite as hard as the one on my Blunderbuss that came half shaped and inletted for a extended comb tang.
You can swap out the cheap lock from low end ML rifles like CVA and Traditions with a quality lock from L&R lock company. This will get you reliable ignition.
https://lr-rpl.com/index.php?option=...d=36&Itemid=62
Traditions rifles have very good barrels, change out the lock and you will have a good rifle and keep costs down.
Swapping out parts for better parts is one thing I do when I buy used rifles cheaper.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |