What do I need tin for again?

[fredj338]

From my reading of the Fryxell/LASC article, a three metal blend of lead, tin and antimony makes the alloy "tougher" without becoming brittle. This is able to resist slipping as it engages the rifling and not shatter when it hits the target. Not shattering is irrelevant for paper but invaluable for hunting. Being soft enough to obdurate to fill the bore, but tough enough to engage the rifling positively is a definite plus for accuracy.
So, why are you shooting, hunting or target? What are you shooting, rifle or pistol? What velocity are you shooting? All of those answers will determine the correct response to your original question.

I think you misunderstand the article a bit. It would depend a lot on the % of each. Lino is a tr-metal alloy & is pretty brittle. I see this when making lead HP. If I introduce antimony in any significant amount, the noses blow off on impact. If I just use lead/tin, I get nice even expansion, depending on the HP design.

[William Yanda]

I think you misunderstand the article a bit. It would depend a lot on the % of each. Lino is a tr-metal alloy & is pretty brittle. I see this when making lead HP. If I introduce antimony in any significant amount, the noses blow off on impact. If I just use lead/tin, I get nice even expansion, depending on the HP design.

Thanks Fred, for your firsthand report about HP's.
I was speaking from memory. I reread From Ingot to Target, Ch. 3 on alloys. I was speaking of PB with an equal, single low digit addition of Sb and Sn. Fryxell speaks of SbSn acting differently than either element alone in improving the bullet characteristics over pure lead. Sb is a more efficient bullet hardener than Sn-requiring less to achieve the same amount of hardness. SbSn is a forgiving hardener as it will absorb excess Sb or Sn-to an extent-before the Sb or Sn in excess of 50/50 acts on the lead in its own distinctive manner. Lyman No. 2 is 90/5/5, expensive and overkill for many boolet users. For many of us, the results we desire can be achieved with about half of the Sb and Sn in Lyman No. 2. That's why COWW, traditionally about 3% Sb, plus 2% tin is a valued recipe. A similar result can be obtained by cutting Lyman No. 2 with plumbers (almost pure) lead.
Others have mentioned the lowered temperature required by Pb/Sn alloys-you could even claim carbon credits for lowered energy usage by using tin.
But before you can decide your route, you need to know both your destination and your origin, unless you are willing to experiment. Who knows, you might get lucky the first time.

[Old Caster]

In my mind there is no alloy that will give you better bullets than pure lead mixed with tin as a 20 -1 alloy because they are so easy to cast but obviously are more expensive. Wheel weights are not quite as good but it is OK and generally so is range pickup if you don't pick up much jacketed and usually tin is not imperative then either.

[GrayTech]

Blanket statements are not all that useful. It all depends what we are trying to do, how much time and effort we are willing to expend, and whether we want satisfactory or near perfect performance in any given application. I use many different alloys specifically tailored to a particular use, from almost pure lead to alloys with very exact content of sb, sn, cu, etc.