For a Storage Unit
No need for a lock and chain. Put your powder and primers in plain boxes, then put them in the non working refrigerator along with an anchovy or a couple ounces of a really funky cheese.
For a Storage Unit
No need for a lock and chain. Put your powder and primers in plain boxes, then put them in the non working refrigerator along with an anchovy or a couple ounces of a really funky cheese.
Mal
Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.
I'm in Texas. Humidity and heat are a concern. My dies, Lee sizers, powders (including powderdoat) including primers are stored inside an air conditioned house. Loading is done in a shed with no climate control. Powders stored in a plastic tote. Rounds in sealed vacum bags and plastic tote. I reserve a couple hundred rounds for shooting, but really load what I need just before I shoot. Sealing these components is important. I cannot over emphasize the importance of desicants for long term storage. For a larger storage area subject to changing conditions the most ecconomical is the Damp-Rid system, though it needs to be emptied yearly, in my case. The advantage is that it's refillable. For my boxes of rounds I put a 1/2 oz packet desicant on top of the rounds then seal using a vacuum sealer. I've never had any problem.
VOTE, VOTE, VOTE often. In dealing with potential dishonesty or corruption, Something you might keep in mind is a revealing quote by S.W. Erdnase in his book The Expert at the Card Table "Almost every ruse in the game is more or less dependent upon another one."
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I understand protection against humidity, but, as we expect loaded ammo to function after being in temperature extremes at and beyond the tolerances of the human being carrying the gun, (being in a hot chamber, for example), are smokeless powders and primers really that temperature sensitive?
I mean, yes, I get that, over a lot of time, just about anything will deteriorate faster when heated, but how much protection is really needed?
Mark the front of the fridge, "Urinalysis/Stool Samples for Testing. Do not place food in this unit."
To keep my primers dry, I vacuum/heat sealed each 1,000 primer box in heat sealable bags. You could do the same with powder, but just about everything now is in plastic containers where humidity wouldn't be an issue.
Any time you seal things in a tight metal container (i.e. paint can, GI ammo can) you run the risk of condensation forming on the inside. I would always put a desiccant pack inside.
Wayne
What doesn't kill you makes you stronger - or else it gives you a bad rash.
Venison is free-range, organic, non-GMO and gluten-free
All my [powder, primers, reloads, reloading equipment] stuff is in the house. I do store 22s and excess factory ammo in a dead freezer in my shop.
So you are likely at retirement age, you are not going to shoot for a couple years...sounds like it is likely the end of your days of doing much shooting. Sell not store your components, might not ever be worth what they are worth today and you don't have to worry about damage or theft. Buy some back it you decide to get back into it in a few years.
Last edited by remy3424; 12-10-2021 at 05:28 PM.
Take a kid to the range, you'll both be glad you did.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |