Best $10 large bullet puller (pulls all calibers with minimal damage)

[Oldfeller]

https://www.amazon.com/Epica-Best-Pr...14&sr=8-2&th=1

------ Remember to buy the BIG ONE !!!!

Into each life a little bullet pulling action must fall ........



I have found (likely rediscovered, really) the cheapest and best way to pull a jacketed bullet in a reuseable fashion.

Extend your loaded shell above the naked surface of your press hole. Take the two opposing flat bottomed sharp jaws and lightly grip the bullet right above the case/bullet junction. I touch the surface of the bullet and then slide down the bullet until the case mouth stops the sliding motion. THIS MAKES FOR VERY FAST AND VERY ACCURATE PLACEMENT OF THE CUT MARK RIGHT AT THE CASE MOUTH.

Then I finger grip the handles very lightly and and reverse the handle motion to pull the bullet. You will grip too tightly for the first one and you will quickly learn the sharp jaws grip incredibly well and as such far less grip force is need than you dreamed possible. A small sliver shaped no depth slice cut divot ("smallest possible" grip force divot is desired) so drop the grip force down to the point the bullets just stop wanting to slip during removal.

The slice cuts you will leave are really meaningless when firing the reused bullets as the forcing cone of the gun will take them out if they are left protruding, but us perfectionists tune the re-installation depth of the bullet to put the sliver just under the edge of the case mouth so the taper crimp just rests upon it (I like to renew the crimp zone to a fresh edge anyway). A roll crimp job also can use the tiny sliver space to "make it all go away" .......

Or, like me "ignore it as meaningless" as the throat at the end of the chamber or the forcing cone in a revolver takes it out completely.

The cutter edges on the blades gets dull over time, so get a round file (chainsaw file) or a round honing stone or some fine sandpaper around a wooden dowel and sharpen it up occasionally. You will like the way the tool sits flat on all normal presses and it sits flat on the Lee 3 and 4 hole turret presses on any unused hole station ---- all equally flat and equally easy to use.



Advantages:

Quick !!!

Fits all bullets.

Minimal skin only circular sliver mark on the bullet (put it back such that it is under the case mouth and it functionally simply isn't there any more). Once the bullet transitions the throat the mark really isn't there anymore, by definition the act of engaging the throat and the rifling takes it out completely.

This tool will pull a 50 cal bullet down to a 0 caliber bullet and it will pull jacketed, lead or powder coated with equal ease.


I enjoy finding a cheaper AND BETTER better way of doing things and this qualifies. If you have no dog that needs his nails clipped, you can take off all the depth stop hardware as it just gets in the way for bullet pulling.


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[nhyrum]

There's a similar device out there for pulling (probably easier and cheaper to go your route) called grip n pull. It looks like quite a handy device, and it's not sharp.

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[cwtebay]

I wholeheartedly agree with you Oldfella!!!
I've been using them as well.
I prefer the Millers Forge brand - mine are used from my office, and I have found that brand to be superior to anything else I have tried. The tension screw/ nut on the jaws allow for very tight control of how you wish to grasp the bullet.
Excellent suggestion!!

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[Oldfeller]

There's a similar device out there for pulling (probably easier and cheaper to go your route) called grip n pull. It looks like quite a handy device, and it's not sharp.

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Grip-n-Pull is made of blunt stainless and requires a lot of grip strength to hold the bullet. Costs $35-40 for just the pistol calibers. Costs additional $35-150 for the rifle calibers (3 of them are required to cover all rifle calibers). You will crush either cast or powder coated bullets enough to put them out of round, which makes it relatively more expensive to get a poorer result.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=grip+n+pu..._ts-doa-p_1_11


look here for availability (currently out of stock)





Miller's Forge is $3-4 cheaper at Amazon but be aware that the older versions with the sheet metal spring were cast metal on the jaws and that the conical nature of the cutting surface is going to be harder to sharpen compared to a round cutter form.

[Mk42gunner]

The sharp cutting edge for pulling projectiles works, as long as the projectile will protrude far enough to get grip.

You're out of luck on the .45 ACP in a standard shell holder.

I use a set of 10" end nips that I originally bought to trim the hooves of my daughter's horse. Waste not want not.

It is possible to pull jacketed bullets without damage, lead I always just remelted.

Robert

[CastingFool]

When I first saw the pic, I thought it was a pet nail clipper, and when I clicked on the link, I saw I was right. Clever idea.

[GregLaROCHE]

I’ve pulled cast boolits that way for years with a pair of pliers. I didn’t care about damage to the Boolits, because I would remelt them.

[frkelly74]

I saw the comment about being out of luck with the 45 ACP. I use a short piece of 1 1/2" plastic drain pipe as a bushing to pull bullets from short rounds. Just set the pipe over the ram with the ram down, raise the ram and grab the bullet when it protrudes from the top of the pipe, then lower the ram. Works well enough.

[gwpercle]

Pet Nail Clippers ... who thought to try that ...
My first thought was vice-grips then channel locks and then tried wire cutter/stripping tool ...
Ended up back with the Kinetic ... Totally Undamaged Pulled boolits and J-words too !
Gary

[Mk42gunner]

I saw the comment about being out of luck with the 45 ACP. I use a short piece of 1 1/2" plastic drain pipe as a bushing to pull bullets from short rounds. Just set the pipe over the ram with the ram down, raise the ram and grab the bullet when it protrudes from the top of the pipe, then lower the ram. Works well enough.

Now that you posted that, I do remember reading that idea somewhere, probably here.

I also think an extended shellholder would work.

Robert

[cwtebay]

I saw the comment about being out of luck with the 45 ACP. I use a short piece of 1 1/2" plastic drain pipe as a bushing to pull bullets from short rounds. Just set the pipe over the ram with the ram down, raise the ram and grab the bullet when it protrudes from the top of the pipe, then lower the ram. Works well enough.

Grmps from this forum messaged me with this idea for pulling an embarrassing number of 38 Short Colt mistakes - works very well!

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[MT Gianni]

It might make sense to take a dremel to it and dull the sharp edge.

[G W Wade]

I have found for cast bullets the easist way. Remove the decapping pin from the sizing die. Then resize the loaded round. The bullet is sized down and the brass will spring back. Then can be pulled with regular pliers. Sometimes run into press with die removed to pull stubborn GW

[Oldfeller]

It might make sense to take a dremel to it and dull the sharp edge.

Not really, the sharp edge is needed to remove the jacketed bullets .......

...... and to greatly reduce the amount of grip force needed to secure the bullets during removal.


I think you all are losing the main idea which is to preserve the bullet for reuse, something that on the jacketed side of things is worth some money to you. Plus the fact you can't find any replacement bullets at the moment.

[KCSO]

Similar to the old Lachmiller Lac Cum puller, but that has interchangeable nose pieces. This has been my prefered puller for years now but I will buy a pair of the pliers for the sizes i don't have an adapter for.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

Hoof nippers have worked well for me since the 1970's.

[Chaparral66]

I have the $50 grip-n-pull... useless on 45 or 9mm. I have the wack-a-mole collet thingie... useless, tough to get the collets aligned. Most of my boolits are cast so if I damage one no big deal, into the pot it goes. I like the pet nail clipper idea.