Kroil in a boolit mold

[Mwilson0173]

I tried this yesterday with my new NOE .270 mold worked like a charm. Like stated above dropped like nothing was holding them and had no wrinkle issues

[Alferd Packer]

Shell oil refinery and American Zinc company as well as Conalco all use Kroil in their plants on corroded bolts and valve stems.
It really seeps under corrosion.Also at US Steel plants as well.
Worked at them as well as Air Products, gas producers.
Have used it and seen it in use in mechanics garages everywhere.
I started using it as gun cleaner as well in concoctions.
Good for freeing up leaf springs as well.
If I sound like a commercial for it it's because it seems like an old friend, and yet, I still come across people who never heard of it.
Persons I think would have seen it.

[barsik]

my experience with kano kroil is an exercise in trial and error. I am casting the Lyman 525 grain 12 gauge slug. this is a "sticky" mold, but whatever the issue is it is always on the same side of the blocks. I applied kroil to the blocks cold with a q tip. it didnt really make any noticeable difference other than giving me wrinkled slugs for quite some time after the blocks were up to temp. I then sprayed kroil right into the blocks while they were at casting temp. lots of smoke and I used a q tip to absorb the excess out of the cavity. casted about 10 slugs while the blocks were giving off lots of smoke and coming away with wrinkled slugs. had to stop for a bit to answer a phone call, maybe about 20 seconds or so and went back to casting. the very first slug fell out of the blocks without any resistance whatsoever. no wrinkles, a perfect slug. had 2 more fall out and then the third one needed a couple of raps on the pin. I learned that those slugs would fall out of the blocks only if the blocks were within a certain temperature range. too cold gets wrinkles, but too hot and they needed a couple of raps. the sweet spot is just a bit hotter than wrinkles but a fair bit below the "frosty" heat level or it gets sticky. yes, it works but I need another mold because my casting rate is slower than I like. btw, I am using 100% salvaged rad solder in the pot, really fills out the mold nicely. the mold cavity is no longer a shiny bluish black, it is a flat black even after a few hundred slugs, kind of like the same thing as a smoked cavity.

[cliffrjjr1]

Dogs name


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[45Automaster$]

I use range scrap exclusively! I get it from a few different sellers on the Web. After processing into ingots,....I alway get that nice "ting" when I knock them together! I think i'm getting an 11-12 BHC out of it. And especially with water quench!....Try it!

[fatfudd]

Thanks to all of you for the insight to Kroil, who'd a thought!

[Kentucky146]

Well I must be one in million the physics of of bonding lead to aluminum blocks does not apply to. I started out scrubbing, drying, smoking molds one day I forgot to, on a LEE 320 Grain .50 R.E.A.L bullet, since 9 years ago I have never scrubbed, smoked a mold and never had issues with bullets dropping free. Steel Molds might be different I have never had/owned one

[ElPistolero]

I really like Kroil. I first ran into it in another application, but have adopted it for many metal prep' and "sticky" wickets. I usually soak iron molds in it overnight if I have not used them for weeks and have not found any problems with aluminum molds, either. One may have to pass over the first couple of pours, but as soon as the mold gets up to alloy temp's, all is good.
After soaking, drain well. Wipe if you feel a need to. (I usually do.)

[ElPistolero]

Prairie dog buddy of mine introduce me to bore cleaning with Kroil maybe 15 years (?) ago. He is one of those "mouse-size target at 2000 yards" fellows. As much as I love Hoppe's (since about 1952), Kroil does all I need on bare steel and ultra-coated bores.