I only have a few Lee moulds but they work well. Both my slug moulds (1 oz. and 7/8 oz.) needed a bit of deburring when I got them but both literally drop slugs now. I use sprue plate lube and powdered graphite to lubricate the mould tops, core pins and the Vee guides in my old style 1 oz. slug mould. I have found that the old style Vee guides tend to gall fairly easily and Lee moulds are soft aluminum. So far the sprue plate lube and graphite have worked well for me. A little dab will do ya!
I modified the core pins to add a post and screw hole for attached wads. It is a very easy modification to do if you have a lathe and does not seem to affect slug balance so they can be used as intended or with an attached wad. The weight is a little higher by about 1/8 oz. powder charge is adjusted accordingly. I had bought a couple of spare core pins for $1.50 ea. and see they now cost $14.00 ea.! I shouldn't need any more but had planned to buy a couple just in case. At $14.00 I'll just buy spare moulds. I get a core pin and mould for about twice the cost of core pin alone.
I plan to try a few different approaches to attached wads once my friend gets to 3D printing again. In the meantime I have to get back to making hot melt glue attached wads for those slugs. I made a form at about the same diameter of the nose at 0.685" then line it with a wrap and a bit of parchment paper then use my glue gun to squirt glue into it until a bit over full. The form is standing vertical so bubbles rise to the top and shrinkage is all in the top. After the glue hardens I cut the end off then use a jig to cut 3/8" thick disks off. These become the attached wads. So far it seems to be the easiest and most consistent method for me. Now to get out and shoot some! Was planning that for last week but didn't make it. Hopefully next week.
Longbow