Have posted looking for someone that changed out the Marlin's hammer spring to the lighter Wolff spring, with no other modifications.
Hammer spring only.
Hammer and trigger replacement would be a whole different question I am NOT asking.
Have posted looking for someone that changed out the Marlin's hammer spring to the lighter Wolff spring, with no other modifications.
Hammer spring only.
Hammer and trigger replacement would be a whole different question I am NOT asking.
Amendments
The Second there to protect the First!
I did it for a Marlin 336 youth model chambered in 3030 (it’s same spring for all models) and it “softened” up an annoyingly stiff trigger pull.
What I ended up with was better but nothing to write home about.
I have put the "Trigger Happy" trigger kit in an 1895 Guide Gun and a newer 336 and both turned out very nice. Unfortunately the kit is now $135, and was quite a bit lower when I did mine. It only takes about 15 minutes to do the swap once you've studied the parts diagram a bit. GF
Careful work with stones can greatly improve Marlin 1895 trigger WITHOUT changing springs or any other parts. The lever plate can be used to test progress while stoning trigger and sear. Does not take much for significant improvement 3lbs or less is attainable without changing parts.
My experience with the 1894 Marlin .357 is that I wouldn't reduce the power of the hammer spring. Instead I would have a good gunsmith do what Mostly Lever Guns suggests. My rifle will fire reliably with CCI small rifle primers but not with their small rifle magnum primers. Causes me to stay away from sperical powder in it. My information suggests that Ball powder needs magnum primers. Especially CCI's.
Jim
Go to Single Action Shooting Society (SASS) fourm for loads of info on Marlins
I agree with Mostly Lever Guns. Have someone who knows what they are doing, work on with fine stones.
Google marauders web page on cowboy guns. Loads of info.
The lighter hammer spring makes the action easier to cycle, which is nice. I shoot most of mine in silhouette competition, so I don't want to slow down lock time...so I keep hammer springs stiff and do trigger improvement with stones. Some old marlins get sketchy primer ignition as firing pin parts wear, so a stiff hammer spring may help them a little??
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |