i use minwax antique oil and johnson's paste wax.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdAh...VideosJoeWRhea
i use minwax antique oil and johnson's paste wax.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdAh...VideosJoeWRhea
Ad Reipublicae his Civitatum Foederatarum Americae, ego sum fortis et libero. Ego autem non exieris ad impios communistarum socialismi. Ora imagines in vestri demented mentem, quod vos mos have misericordia, quia non.
To the Republic of these United States of America, I am strong and free. I will never surrender to godless communist socialism. Pray to images in your demented mind, that you will have mercy, because i will not.
MOLON LABE
Both will be tacky if not done properly. The trick is to warm the oil first either by itself or cut with real turpintine and warmed. Then apply it to the stock by hand / fingers working it into the grain with a rubbing motion. After the finish has been applied vigorusly buff of the excess oil with a rough cloth let set at least overnight but 24 hours is better. Repeat over at least 3 to 4 times and you will have a good finish.
I use low gloss tung oil, I don't care for really shiny stocks. Many coats, gently rubbed with 4-0 steel wool in between coatings. Let dry at least 24 hours between coats. I will caution anyone who uses raw linseed oil to be VERY, VERY careful with the used rags. They WILL spontaneously combust. In a past life I was a painter, and had a 5 gallon bucket with some oily linseed rags in the back of my truck catch fire. Luckily, I was able to catch it and put it out before my truck turned into a melted heap of scrap metal.
I have both raw linseed oil, and BLO. I really can't tell much difference in the consistency, both are a lighter oil, and of a kind of yellow/amber color. The main difference is the smell. BLO is ok, but you can tell it has chemicals. Raw linseed oil smells fantastic, kind of a lemony scent to it.
I've never been a fan of Tung oil, or true oil. There's also a bunch of tung oils, and they are all different. Overall they are more or less a varnish that dries over the wood, and results in what I consider a less than stellar appearance. Take RDF's rifle. A beautiful rifle, with great wood, but it looks like he dipped it in plastic. It's all personal preference, but I don't want my rifles to look like that.
I've had good luck with BLO, although I have yet to totally strip and refinish a rifle with it. Mostly I've used it on tools and such. Sure it takes a little time to dry, but it isn't that bad. The big thing for me is it is repairable. When I get a scratch, and every thing I own will be scratched, I just rub a little more BLO on it, and you can't hardly tell what happened. My only real experience with raw linseed oil was on a surplus M14 stock. I used it just like I used BLO, and it really brought the life back into the stock. I never noticed any problems with it being wet. It's not like it was running off or anything, and I didn't get any on me when I was shooting. Both seem to hold up as well as they need to in the rain and snow, at least as well as anything else I've seen.
I'm kind of torn on my own build at the moment, although I have a lot of time to think about it yet. I'd naturally use BLO, but wood craft sells something called "tried and true", which is kind of a more traditional BLO, vs the stuff we buy now which is a bunch of chemicals. The only reason I shy away from raw linseed oil is because of its reputation for taking months to dry.
This is a long read but should answer your questions: https://thecmp.org/wood-cleaning-article/
Sompthing I haven’t seen used is lemon oil or orange oil. I did a 3o3 Brit 4#2 with lemon . Rubbed let sit . Steel whoop it and apply more rubbing it in till hot. This turned out great .
a beauty!
Not particularly concerning rifle stocks, but at several gun shows there has been a feller who sold nothing but pistol grips, and had several tables at each show. . His wood grips looked great. I asked him what he used, and he swore by lemon oil. He said you could get it a Walmart for @ $4 . I got a pint of it and since then have been using it exclusively on my revolver grips. I really perks them and is not sticky at all after it dries.
Britons shall never be slaves.
Raw will dry but it takes months. The trick is to heat it just below flash point preferably in a vaccume so you can go higher in tempearature without fire. Some purist do this because they put additives in boiled linseed oil now to speed up the drying. Some have alot of trouble with boiled because they lay in on too thick so it never dries.
This old guy is a pro, explains why boild linseed is best and how to apply it
https://youtu.be/eEBBc7O8nYQ
https://youtu.be/mzVdsln29o8
Last edited by almar; 11-23-2021 at 03:34 PM.
“It is not enough that we do our best; sometimes we must do what is required.”
― Winston S. Churchill
I mostly just freshen up my finished long guns and used Danish and never was impressed. I ended up with a 69A in poor condition that got a repair on the smashed handgrip and the rest of the stock. I used a random orbital and refinished in about two minutes. After a finer finish and a few coats of Danish and wax, it never kept any sheen, and I wasnt happy. I tried some Tung oil and it looks great now and even has a Winchester color. All my guns now look fantastic with some standing out even more.
I been trying to replicate the look of the walnut in a new M1 or M 14 stockI remember my 66 Marlin had a similar look to it( this was before Marshield) it has little or no gloss ,but a beauty all it’s own ( of course I spent 16 years growing up in the Army) four years later I went in the Marines,in time to have a M14 issued to me,and did I mention the smell of military canvas and supply depots makes me all warm inside!? Excuse me…I’m getting teary..but anyways I want that finish ,Tru oil is great but does not look like military issue walnut,I have a can of Minnesota pure oil ( with hardeners) it’s a leftover ,I’m sure very old,but still good,I also have a can of Hopes pure ,real 100% tung oil,
I believe BLO has driers added to speed cure time. If time is not critical plain linseed oil is fine.
Micah 6:8
He hath shewed thee, O man, what is good; and what doth the LORD require of thee, but to do justly, and to love mercy, and to walk humbly with thy God?
"I don't have hobbies - I'm developing a robust post-apocalyptic skill set"
I may be discharged and retired but I'm sure I did not renounce the oath that I solemnly swore!
I personally don't use or like linseed oil in any form. There are much better finishing products out there that are much more durable and less of a hassle. My own preferences are polyurethane or acrylic based finishes. Gasp, did I really say that? Use what floats your boat.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |