I bought a box of strike any where matches at rural king the other day
I add mine to the bucket with rejected cases and .22 brass. My dealer never had a issue.
Knowledge I take to my grave is wasted.
I prefer to use cartridges born before I was.
Success doesn't make me happy, being happy is what allows me to be successful.
I just went and lit about 10 in a row without fail dragging them across the table top. btw- there is no blue tip on them. Scraping the tips off 2 or 3 is enough to fill the primer cup. I also am able to light them Clint Eastwood style just using my thumb. No box needed. Diamond Greenlight matches.
https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Green...27802412&psc=1
Thank you for that. I was under the impression I was looking for unicorns.
Kevin
Knowledge I take to my grave is wasted.
I prefer to use cartridges born before I was.
Success doesn't make me happy, being happy is what allows me to be successful.
Right. Many of my anvils fall out of the cup when I de-prime. I have had a good look at them over the years. Not having ever tried to rebuild primers - I think the replaced priming compound (match head dust) does not have a chance to stay in there. In new primers, the compound is applied wet/paste and dries as a solid that adheres to the cup.
??? never done it.
Chill Wills
ONo doubt! Very tedious. What we really need is the recipe for the primer paste itself. Cool stuff. Here’s the link.
https://22lrreloader.com/products/pr...iming-compound
With the Prime-All compound, you mix it with acetone and make a paste, fill the cup and let it dry. Reset the anvil and seat the primer right away. I've read that some ammo manufacturers seat the primers while the compound is still wet.
Some make small paper cutouts and set them in the cup under the anvil.
I have reloaded some, but the ones I recycle I melt them down and make brass apples for the kids teachers. They always love them. Lost foam method.
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My metals recycler takes them, pays a little less than for cartridge brass.
The last batch I remembered had a couple decapped live primers, and also what another reloader gave me, so the whole can went into my processing pot and I turned up the propane jet burner. There were a few pops and spits of blue and green flame.
ETA: that Apple looks great. Solid? If so, that's a lot of primers.
I once made a set of shooting bags; I used spent primers to fill them (double bagged in plastic) instead of sand.
Everything is referred to on the invoice as "yellow brass", primers and cartridge cases
If they take them that is what you get. Around here they take your DL# as ID.
Whatever!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |