No doubt! This is why a good UPS is on my list to power the printers, even tho the one I got supposedly handles power glitches well, better yet to have zero power dropouts!
No doubt! This is why a good UPS is on my list to power the printers, even tho the one I got supposedly handles power glitches well, better yet to have zero power dropouts!
I got my son an XYZ Crazy3dPrint for Christmas 2019. He had problems with random layer shifts. With help from their support, he figured out the problem was the travel and print speeds he was using were too fast. Prints much better now. I haven't played with it much, but did make some inserts for the Lyman 17A front sights on my lever rifles.
I have a 3V2 as well, eventually I will get the 2nd Z plane motor and etc. upgrade, and a direct filament drive upgrade. Should let me print faster First I need to get it put together though LOL
3V2 is what I am running as well. Just upgraded the hot end to allow use of nylon. Pretty simple to set up and operate.
Nylon would be good, I need to see how to do that hot end upgrade some day
There are a couple of options to do the upgrade. All metal Micro Swiss runs about $63 on Amazon or the cheapo off brand for $12. I went cheap lol. Basically the kits replace the plastic tube in the hot end between the heat sink and extruder head with a metal tube so it wont melt at the higher temp. I have not tried it with the nylon yet. I've been running it with PLA to ensure I didn't screw something up on the install. According to my research online, I may need to re-calibrate the temp sensor for the higher temps but I am really hoping to avoid that lol.
If you guys have the money, don't really want to tinker but print once the printer is built, buy a Prusa Mk3s+ . Kit is $750, Have to add a magnetic sheet or two depending on what you want to print with so roughly $850 total. Yes, not cheap, but once you get printer built, and then spend a couple of hours getting it set up for PLA and or PETG, it just prints. I bought one last year and it just works. I can turn it on, select the model off the card and press go. It heats, calibrates and just prints. NO tinkering.
I’m new to 3D printing, but am worried about power outages that occur often where I live. Many years ago I had a backup battery/inverter when using a computer with a generator. So far my projects don’t take that long. Is even a one second cut in power enough to ruin a print?
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |