I have a dumb question. Why isn't the powder side of the hole beveled outward like a nozzle? I know there is a tool to do this to remove any burrs and uniform the hole size in the powder side but why isn't this done from the factory?
I have a dumb question. Why isn't the powder side of the hole beveled outward like a nozzle? I know there is a tool to do this to remove any burrs and uniform the hole size in the powder side but why isn't this done from the factory?
Jim Ceglinski
Southfield, Mi. 48075
I would imagine it has to do with time money and machinery. Just my thoughts.
have you ever seen factory punch presses mass producing items? we are fortunate to have the uniformity that we do have. I guess some may have slowed equipment down and pay more attention to the fine details, like Norma and lapua brass is a higher quality, more attention to the finer details and possibly a bit of a slower process.
The difference in accuracy between a 'factory' punched flash hole and a deburred flash hole only becomes noticeable beyond 200 yards and it takes a very accurate rifle to test the difference. I THINK I MIGHT gain MAYBE a 0.25 MOA at 200 yards with the flash hole deburred. IF you THINK something makes you shoot better, then it does. Cost is the biggest reason for not drilling or deburring flash holes. Super premium brass like Lapua and Nosler do have drilled/deburred flash holes and the cost is higher. Recent brass production with CNC machinery and computer controlled inspections does produce much more uniform brass than that produced in the 70's and 80's based upon a couple thousand in .284 Win, 300 Savage, 32 Special, 308, others from that era compared to recent production.
Hit em'hard
hit em'often
Well that answers my dumb question. I guess Im a poor bastard that cant afford the good stuff. Lol Thank you all.
Jim Ceglinski
Southfield, Mi. 48075
The tools to deburr the inside of the flash hole are not expensive. It's just one more small thing to uniform brass before loading. It probably doesn't make much if any difference for my hunting rifles but it makes me feel good so why not.
I've used a number 2 long center drill for ages.
I inside de burr all my brass other than Lapua, Alpha, and Peterson....no down side at all.
A real eye opener on new brass is seen when you stand up the cases, Mouth Up, in a loading block and look at the flash hole. Jeez, burrs abound in some Lot#, almost covering up the flash holes in some cases.
Be careful to not go too deep with your de burring tool as it will weaken the primer pocket.
I debur all my metallics
Three44s
Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207
“There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”
I use the Lyman tool.
Last edited by 243winxb; 04-20-2021 at 05:30 PM.
I prefer this flash hole uniformer, it won't allow you to go too deep. The stop collar truly uniforms both the flash hole, and the inside of the case.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/101759217
I've used the Lyman flash hole deburring tool for years. It only takes a few seconds per case and it's a one-time operation, but I only do it for cases I plan to use for my long-range rifles.
I started inside flash hole de-burring with a 22-250 shooting J-words.
About that time I was also running red dot in some .38 special cases and was not thrilled with how dirty it was. I tried a few cases with de-burring and was impressed with the results.
I tried it with some other revolver loads I was working at the time and all cleaned up to some varying degree. The already fairly clean loads were not affected as much which stands to reason.
So I was at a cross roads. Was I going to continue de-burring some cases but not others thus creating a dilemma on ID ‘ing those, just drop the practice except for varmint cartridges or jump in with both feet and de-bur all my metallics?
I chose the latter reasoning that good complete powder burn and believing that it leads to better consistency in many circumstances would arise.
Inside flash hole debur is a once off treatment and I trim my brass coming into my inventory of prepped cases then debur.
Three44s
Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207
“There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”
All good information. I also chamfer flash holes on all of my brass. Started using RCBS's tools and have a pile of the pilots. As soon as I saw the 21st Century tools I bought the large, small, and Lapua small flash hole versions. I like how they won't go to deep.
As was mentioned, it takes accurate guns with good handloads to notice a difference in accuracy (if even then). It just became one of the things I do for new brass like primer pocket uniforming. Does it really matter? My mind says it must becasue why else would I do it? The 2 primer pocket processes only have to be done once per case at least. You to may have brass OCD but you don't have to tell people....
I'm guessing because most people can't shoot well enough to tell the difference - those who can will pony up for the more expensive brass and tools.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |