Does anyone here own a C. Sharps Arms g
fire arm? I would like to know generally prior to driving there.
Does anyone here own a C. Sharps Arms g
fire arm? I would like to know generally prior to driving there.
I own a C sharps 1874 sharps? Not sure what a g fire arm is though. If your asking about their sharps rifles they are very good rifles and can put shoot my abilities for sure.
Not sure if they are the same fit and finish compared to Shiloh but shooting wise they are probably just as good.
I have owned one for several years and put 10000 rounds through it. I would not give you a dine for their tang sight. The gun shoots much better than I can hold today. I would buy it again. In my younger days (Fiftys) I could hold 2 1/2" +/-1/4" at 300 yards. Today 3 1/2"-4" I consider good with my arm strength and eye sight.
I had one of their 1875 models and sold it. It's a poor design that kept breaking firing pins. I had to DNF in several matches when the pin would stick in the fired position and not allow the block to open. It was however nicely finished and quite accurate. The 1874 and 1885 actions are probably just fine but I don't have any personal experience with them.
I have a C. Sharps 1874 that I traded for a few years back that rivals any Shiloh I’ve handled. Fit and finish is stunning and it shoots like a champ in 45/70!
Seems to be a crap shoot, if you get a good one it's great, if you don't it's going to be a lot of expense and aggravation afterwards to get it fixed and working properly.
I have 5 CSA rifles, all ordered direct, 3 of the 5 never ever should of left the shop floor.
Long range rules, the rest drool.
My experience has been a little like Don's. My first 1885 had a really huge chamber. I could never get it shooting well. The guy I sold it to is happy. The 1874's I've owned from them have been good except for one with a really poorly done pewter nose cap. The 1885's I've had have generally been good with the exception of the one I mentioned, and another that has about 0.010" excess headspace. I like that rifle a lot, it does shoot very well, so I'll have to get that fixed one of these days.
So basically, the ones I still have, I like a lot. But any new rifles I'd order from Shiloh. I've never had any troubles with a Shiloh and all of mine are capable of master class scores.
Chris.
Have never seen a C Sharps equal to the fit and finish of a Shiloh when all options are equal. My last was a C Sharps and there won't be anymore.
I have a 75 model. If you see one, put a cleaning rod or yard stick to each side of the reciever to the muzzle. You may find a lot more space on one side than the other. Mine does this, like 1/2 to 3/4 off. It shoots better than I can. A friend had one that also was off. He sent it back and they fixed it; not sure how. Otherwise I had no complaints. My fire pin never hung up. I have Axtel sights. What is a "g"?
I've owned an 85 and a 75 and have been happy with both of them. The 85 has broken several firing pins over the 30 years I've owned it but the 75 has only broken 1 which also was a problem with my 74 Pedersoli. I keep a spare for each.
The 75 with a 38-55 Badger barrel is probably the easiest BPCR that I've ever worked up a load for and is scary accurate. I bought it for a deer rifle but have copped a couple trophys with it.
Bob
GUNFIRE! The sound of Freedom!
With a Sharps put the hammer on 1/2 cock before dropping the block so you don't break the firing pin.
The hammer will hold the pin extruded and it will catch on the barrel or stick in the spent primer dimple, especially if you use soft pistol primers.
On my 75 firing pins weren't much of a problem, but the thing would eat transfer bars like they were cheap candy bars.
Long range rules, the rest drool.
Based on my experiences with C. Sharps I would have to say go with a Shiloh. I have had 5 different c. sharps and although they looked great none of them shot very well. The 1885 in .45-70 was a 3" group at 100 yds no mater what the load the 1874 in .45-90 was the same. The first 75 was a .45-70 it would shoot a little better but not by much. The second 75 was a .38-55 and would shoot about 2" at 100 yds. The last one and the one which made me decide no more C's was a .38-55 that would shoot 2" and some times a little less but it wouldn't hold zero, the forend and its screws kept coming loose and in the 6 months I owned it I put in 4 firing pins. I have 2 Shiloh's now that I wouldn't trade for a new car one of which has had a ton of lead through it and the other 3 I had but got talked out of I wish I had back. The only parts I have had to replace is a Lever spring and a main spring. The lever spring was for my pet long range express and the main spring was for a Montana rough rider that I got that was not in the best condition it had been rode hard and put up wet many a time before I took ownership. I will say both companies were top notch getting replacement parts to me FAST, order on monday and there on wednesday Mt to Va is pretty impressive.
Thank you for the info gang. I have brass and dies for the 45/70 and would and would consider the Bridgeport model in that caliber. On the other hand, since I'm not a competitor due to limited vision and ability, I believe a low wall in something like the
45 Colt, maybe the 44wcf would love a 32wcf but not offered. Whatever, it would save resources and am set up to load for. It's distressing to hear about the poor qc at c sharps.
I had gotten my rifle second hand. It is a long range hunting and target model. I don't have a Shiloh to compare. My rifle shows good fit and finish. My rifle was made in the time where Badger barrels were used. There is much that is right. I would stay away from their tang sights period.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |