Try this version for Mac:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ksv...ew?usp=sharing
My only concern is with the OpenSCAD CLI commands on a Mac. They might not work the way I am calling for collator plate generation.
Can you please test the Collator Plate Generator too?
Thx!
haha that's exactly what I say to Windows users
Thanks for the quick turnaround but it's still failing. Decompiling I see a mixture of hardcoded Windows and non-Windows paths. Instead of building paths by concatenating strings can you try platform agnostic such as ```new File(path, filename).getAbsolutePath()```? Or is you can send me over the source code I can update it and test it then send it back.
The only hardcoded Windows stuff are the paths to the project and OpenSCAD. I have removed those now and use System queries to get locations for both.
Here is the new link:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FgZ...ew?usp=sharing
The Project Generator part should work flawlessly now. The Collator Plate Genertor might not because the CLI commands for Mac might be different.
Can you please verify if the Project Generator is creating the ZIP files? Make sure that the path to the project is correct; if the .jar is in the project that will suffice
Then, test the Collator Plate Generator and let me know what happens. We can then look at sending you the source.
Thx!
The app loads and displays the correct path for the project location. When I click start is see an empty Parts.zip created with 0 file size, but nothing else. The decompiled code looks like it publishes progress messages but all I see is the progress bar moving as the following:
Maybe an error somewhere still with it trying to determine the path of the stl to add to the zip?
Last edited by thump_rrr; 02-14-2021 at 09:36 AM.
Hi thump_rrr,
Just curious, why does it need to touch the shell plate? Does the case not push up high enough to actuate the dropper? Also, I see you're using both the locknut and spring holder. Does it help if you remove the locknut and just use the spring holder as it appears that's just about all the distance you're short?
Ed
______________________________________________
Growing old is mandatory, growing up is totally optional!
If I don't use the second locknut I can get it low enough to where it will actuate but then I don't have any adjustability to where the springs end up especially with the other spring attachment points on the die body.
Also when I add the other dies to the press I may need to rotate the drop tube so that the switch doesn't get in the way of other things.
A little more adjustability wouldn't hurt.
You can see how much more adjustability the Hornady dies have.
It's not like the real estate isn't there to add more threads.
As Ed pointed out, there is no reason for the die body to touch the shell plate, like you would with a sizing die. Technically, the die only needs to be screwed in far enough to get a bullet to drop when the brass case is in its highest position. With these rifle dies, I suspect that happens before the die is even all the way in the press. In which case, you would just screw it in flush to the bottom so you have full thread engagement, but even that isn't actually necessary to get the dropper to function the way it's supposed to.
Just to add. The reason why the springs had to stretch so far before was because the die body was not long enough, but screwing it overly far in the press will make it worse as well. With the new longer die body, adjustments to the spring clips, and screwing the die in flush, a much shorter spring can be used with the dedicated clip points on the die itself. The new springs I ordered are .875" long (but 1" would work too) and will stretch 2" at max load, which I believe will work very well.
Last edited by TylerR; 02-14-2021 at 11:38 AM.
I am not sure but that should have nothing to do with it. The way you are supposed to set the die, is to first pick a set of bearing holes that are slightly below the height of the bullet. Assemble the die, screw it part way in to the press and place a couple of bullets into it. Put a piece of brass in the shell plate and raise it to its highest point. Continue screwing the die in to the press until a bullet drops. Screw the die another full turn and you should be good to go.
I just created a dedicated .44 die body. It is 10mm longer then the 45 to account for the longer case. Will be in the next update.
Printed the body and the 223 bullet plate. the plate needed to be sanded down to make it fit the body without hanging up. It was making contact on opposite sides, Upper Left and Lower Right. Anybody have problem with this before? Could my printer be slightly off? I did notice a slight elephants foot, however I still had contact after getting this smoothed out and that was just on two or three "segments" of the plate
In the latest version the stock plates are set to 180mm, which is 2mm less then the body. I made this change to reduce the slop for certain bullets that people were having problems with. It was 179.5mm before. You can reprint the plate at 179.5mm or less if you need to.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |