Making that Bullet Collator

[TylerR]

The flipper was used exactly one time at 17 seconds in.....could not tell if the doubled one made the difference, but what I did notice is that there were way less bullets between the base wall and the already holed bullets than in my experience....like zero?....what angle was it set? Looks good.

What I'm most interested in is the TinkerCad connection. Did you just take measurements and make a new model, or somehow get TylerR's STL to work on Tinkercad? That would be a game changer if you could do that......

I got my new motor in, but I also screwed up my wiring.....or at least I thought I did. Turns out it was a bad connector to the wall wart and I took it all back apart for nothing.......maybe today.... I did come up with a better way to rotate angles on my system.....more later when I get it finished.

Yeah I am definitely going to make the flipper a bit taller. I think it just makes sense.

"Did you just take measurements and make a new model?"
If he did that he is a master. That plate would not be easy to replicate from scratch.

[thump_rrr]

[QUOTE=TylerR;5113917]

Glad to see it working. Just curious, any reason you didn't just opt to use a screw for the spacing?
I like the idea of a larger flipper. Makes me think perhaps the stock one should be taller. Maybe not quite double though.

My OCD is the only reason LOL.
I didn’t like the fact that the front of the plate stuck out.

[thump_rrr]

The flipper was used exactly one time at 17 seconds in.....could not tell if the doubled one made the difference, but what I did notice is that there were way less bullets between the base wall and the already holed bullets than in my experience....like zero?....what angle was it set? Looks good.

What I'm most interested in is the TinkerCad connection. Did you just take measurements and make a new model, or somehow get TylerR's STL to work on Tinkercad? That would be a game changer if you could do that......

I got my new motor in, but I also screwed up my wiring.....or at least I thought I did. Turns out it was a bad connector to the wall wart and I took it all back apart for nothing.......maybe today.... I did come up with a better way to rotate angles on my system.....more later when I get it finished.

You can import STL files into tinkercad then you add and subtract bits and pieces of different shapes to either add or subtract material.

I bet you that most 5 year olds could probably do it faster than I can.
I downloaded probably every CAD program available yet I can’t figure out how to modify a single line.

The funny part is that I’m a mechanical contractor.
I still do duct design by pen and paper.

Edit: The angle was exactly 45 degrees.
I think that the flipper also came into play at around the 13-14 second mark.
In testing sessions with more bullets it came into play even more.

[thump_rrr]

I just realized the changes you made here, and now it makes sense the #11 slide needed to be moved out. I would make a suggestion to anyone else attempting 6.5 to just print the stock #11 collator plate and slide that are already generated and I think it would work perfectly.

If you print the #11 collator in its stock form the holes will be sized for 308.
I believe that the bullets would flop around a lot more and may not be centred with the drop tube.
I will eventually print a #11 plate for 308 so I can test it out to see if it will work.

[TylerR]

If you print the #11 collator in its stock form the holes will be sized for 308.
I believe that the bullets would flop around a lot more and may not be centred with the drop tube.
I will eventually print a #11 plate for 308 so I can test it out to see if it will work.

Yes there would be some extra room but I don't believe it would hurt anything. If you do get a chance to try it let us know please.

[GWS]

You can import STL files into tinkercad then you add and subtract bits and pieces of different shapes to either add or subtract material.

I bet you that most 5 year olds could probably do it faster than I can.
I downloaded probably every CAD program available yet I can’t figure out how to modify a single line.

The funny part is that I’m a mechanical contractor.
I still do duct design by pen and paper.

Edit: The angle was exactly 45 degrees.
I think that the flipper also came into play at around the 13-14 second mark.
In testing sessions with more bullets it came into play even more.

I'll have to try it out.......I've designed buildings in Autocad (be 50 years in 22) and just started playing with the 3d side this year!.......for 3d printing reloading tools of course. My experience in the trade is that 3d buildings are just for the owners who can't see in 3d using 2d drawings......and I won't do that for just anyone......costs too much time.....and the subcontractors won't use them anyway.....they just confuse everything.

But Autocad can only export .STLs........and that's been frustrating.

BTW, my mechanical contractor of choice gives me his designs (one liner's on paper) and I make nice 2D drawings from them for the project documents. But haven't done that for a while....think the last one was a grocery store.

[SuperMoose]

Ran into an issue printing the collator plate...for the second time. It looks like after it lays down the base layer, it isn't enough to keep it from sticking. It was peeling up from the one side when I checked on the print.

Any ideas?

Ender 3. Running it at 10% infill, 210 nozzle temp, 70 bed temp. eSun PLA Plus 1.75mm filament.

[Anuccite]

What Filament? I see Esun pla...

What are the rest of your settings.... and have you calibrated esteps and all that as per the manual?

[TylerR]

Ran into an issue printing the collator plate...for the second time. It looks like after it lays down the base layer, it isn't enough to keep it from sticking. It was peeling up from the one side when I checked on the print.

Any ideas?

Ender 3. Running it at 10% infill, 210 nozzle temp, 70 bed temp.

I have been 3d printing for a long time now, and I have to be honest I am not even sure where to start with that. Hopefully someone better at troubleshooting will chime in on this one.

[SuperMoose]

What Filament?

eSun PLA Plus 1.75mm

[thump_rrr]

Ran into an issue printing the collator plate...for the second time. It looks like after it lays down the base layer, it isn't enough to keep it from sticking. It was peeling up from the one side when I checked on the print.

Any ideas?

Ender 3. Running it at 10% infill, 210 nozzle temp, 70 bed temp. eSun PLA Plus 1.75mm filament.

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
I always start by doing a frame check.
Check to ensure you have good belt tension.
Next is testing and calibrating the extruder.
I then do a first layer test.
If I don’t get a uniform first layer I replace the nozzle and try again.

I also never go below 20% fill.

[Anuccite]

This was printing so nice! While I was admiring it, I realized I sliced the wrong Base!

[Anuccite]

I also never go below 20% fill.

I have become a huge fan of Gryoid infill and 10%.... See my misprinted base above

[stanford]

Ran into an issue printing the collator plate...for the second time. It looks like after it lays down the base layer, it isn't enough to keep it from sticking. It was peeling up from the one side when I checked on the print.

Any ideas?

Ender 3. Running it at 10% infill, 210 nozzle temp, 70 bed temp. eSun PLA Plus 1.75mm filament.

1. Do a test print with a brim, use about 5-6 outlines on the brim and 0 mm from the part so basically it sticks to the edges of the part.. This will hold the print down on the plate while its printing.
2. Are you printing on a glass bed?
3. If the brim doesn't work then you will have to print on a raft.

Explain your setup or take a picture so I can see what's going on. Most of us here have been printing for a while so we can help you end the frustration.

[stanford]

This was printing so nice! While I was admiring it, I realized I sliced the wrong Base!

That is so funny. When I started printing out this project I think around christmas while my son was visiting. I printed out the base twice and I was asking my son if he could see anything wrong with the print because it doesn't look right. After he told me that it look reversed I didn't understand what he meant.

Well upon closer inspection come to find out I had calibrated my printer backwards so the printed spring side of the base was now printed on the right side of the base. The print came out perfect (twice), but it was inverted. I had just upgraded to a newer version of Marlin so you see the confusion. If I still have that base I will post a pic, its the smaller AM base.

[stanford]

Ran into an issue printing the collator plate...for the second time. It looks like after it lays down the base layer, it isn't enough to keep it from sticking. It was peeling up from the one side when I checked on the print.

Any ideas?

Ender 3. Running it at 10% infill, 210 nozzle temp, 70 bed temp. eSun PLA Plus 1.75mm filament.

POST 3963 http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...=1#post5114192 you can see the brim around the print. That will prevent prints from lifting off the bed or getting knocked off while printing.

Here is a video of my CR-10S that I am reassembling. If your printer is doing this stuff then you are in trouble. I am still tuning it up so its crazy right now. Pay attention to the earthquake at the end of the video.

https://youtu.be/eu8_DVl1baI

[SuperMoose]

1. Do a test print with a brim, use about 5-6 outlines on the brim and 0 mm from the part so basically it sticks to the edges of the part.. This will hold the print down on the plate while its printing.
2. Are you printing on a glass bed?
3. If the brim doesn't work then you will have to print on a raft.

Explain your setup or take a picture so I can see what's going on. Most of us here have been printing for a while so we can help you end the frustration.

I am printing on a glass bed. I put these on a raft because the piece on the left (when I did the 9mm version) must have gotten loose and was a mess with filament everywhere. The raft fixed the issue for those.

[TylerR]

I am printing on a glass bed. I put these on a raft because the piece on the left (when I did the 9mm version) must have gotten loose and was a mess with filament everywhere. The raft fixed the issue for those.

Printing on glass is tough. I did it for years with ABS using glue stick. Since I got my ender 5 I print all in PLA now, and am a big fan of the poly plates like this one. I used some 220 sandpaper to rough the surface up and it works great.

https://www.amazon.com/235-235mm-Mam..._t3_B07YFCVR6G

[thump_rrr]

I’ve been having a hell of a time printing the bullet feeder die for 6.5-7mm.
The inner part always gets knocked over for some reason.
I tried a raft, brim, glue stick, combinations there of.

[wrinkles]

Printing on glass is tough. I did it for years with ABS using glue stick. Since I got my ender 5 I print all in PLA now, and am a big fan of the poly plates like this one. I used some 220 sandpaper to rough the surface up and it works great.

https://www.amazon.com/235-235mm-Mam..._t3_B07YFCVR6G

When I have trouble getting pla to stick on glass I just spray some hair spray on the glass. I good thick layer or two of hair spray will make it stick.