I assume the general consensus is I should regenerate the stock collator plates to use the new slip clutch?
I assume the general consensus is I should regenerate the stock collator plates to use the new slip clutch?
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Yes, that would be appreciated and people can also use the plate generator as well. I just downloaded the most recent folder from the shared downloads link and the Collator Plate Generator does not have the clutch option. I did a text search and didn't find the option. Has anyone else downloaded the updated version yet?
Yes, everything is the same except the collator plate. I tightened everything up. Dropped the shaft hole from 10mm to 8.5mm. Increased the plate diameter to 180.5mm. Changed the caliber from 11.5 to 11.2mm. Played around with different slide plates to see which one they liked. #9 works good or #10 pulled out slightly. I also used #12 spring adapters and sanded and used acetone on them to make them as smooth as possible.
Like I said, I have the 160's getting to the drop hole fine, they just tend to get jammed somewhere else on the way down.
okay......guess I'm the only dumb guy.....what's the physics involved? What do the plates look like without the center clutch installed? I know it's friction....but between what? The two bolts screw into nuts underneath?
So this means all plates the same.....only the clutch changes between hex and pin? That'd be a good thing for sure.
Based my testing I would say it's pretty damn solid. Print a new plate and slip clutch and let me know if you have any questions. You just need a couple #6 x 1/2" screws and lock nuts.
I am back to messing with the ramp now and other things because I have not given up on lablover's 160's just yet.
Oh and don't forget to use supports for the collator plates. Other wise you are going to get a big spaghetti mess on the bottom side of the rotor.
Last edited by TylerR; 01-31-2021 at 01:26 AM.
I have put some thought in to the hex version of the new slip clutch regarding the set pin sticking out. With all the variations out there and the fact that it takes away from the limited surface area, I am not going to make any attempt to add a slot. If you are using hex the best thing to do is grind the pin down so when it is screwed in it sits flush.
I'm assuming the clutch is printed with PLA. And the bolts are tightened just so, so the thing turns the plate normally but allowed to slip when there is a bind. So then it continues turning, during the bind, at the friction-held joint.
So, since we know that PLA melts with heat applied as happens under friction, how long will this last before a new plate and clutch have to be printed........or what's to keep the molten joint from fusing as does every layer as we print with PLA? So am I over thinking this?
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