When I was in Australia in 1971 I found 27 last names in the Sydney phone book that matched my last name, always wondered how the name got there.
When I was in Australia in 1971 I found 27 last names in the Sydney phone book that matched my last name, always wondered how the name got there.
Is there any real benefit to using MEK over acetone?
Slower evaporation, which can give more time to get complete coverage. Helpful in hot, dry conditions where the standard mix may evaporate fast.
Another option is to dilute the coating mix more while adding more to the same number of boolits to be coated; twice the amount at half the strength for example. It'd give you the same amount of solid HiTek in the coating dried onto the casts, but much more time for swirling to get that coating all over each boolit.
I do something similar. I shake for about 30 seconds with the lid closed, then pop one side open and shake until they stop tumbling.
I'm experimenting with drilling increasingly larger holes in the lid to get the timing right.
It's not hot right now, but normally Texas is hot enough that acetone evaporates way to fast to tumble with the lid off. But if I can figure out the right sized hole to put in the lid to control evaporation, I should be able to make it much more repeatable year-round.
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Actually, I do most of the above: diluted, shaken covered with a perforated lid, then uncovered so I can see and hear the changes as the coating dries. I actually have to admit not trying MEK or denatured alcohol. I thought and asked about it, but decided I was introducing more variables.
Coating time definitely varies with the conditions. Doing it outdoors means changing weather and adjustments to suit. I just adjust with the acetone carrier.
I'm from Brisbane, .au so we never get cold, we get hot and humid weather, most of the time. I have never had issues of drying too fast. If i'm after better coating, as in lube grooves, i add my 5ml of coating, then 2ml of pure acetone. It makes the hi-tek runnier so it goes everywhere before it starts to evaporate. NLG cast don't need the acetone, but lube grooved ones like the added acetone to make them prettier, i know it's needed, but i like them to look good.
I drop my coated projectiles when the coating is still a little wet, they do not stick together when i drop them out, but it also doesn't drop out runny coating, it's all on the cast.
It works for me, and gives a smooth coating.
MEK is slower to evaporate, it also smells so very bad, i have used it in a confined area, id it's not at all fun.
That's what's so great about this product. You don't have to be a rocket scientist to make it work. Each of us probably have a different technique and it still works great. It's like magic fairy dust.
I did, but it changes based on ambient temps and humidity, which changes from hour to hour here. It was in the 30's last night and by this afternoon it'll be in the low 70's, and this is supposed to be winter. So I asked myself why I'm changing up the mixture when all I'm trying to do is slow evaporation. I can do that directly by reducing exposure to air.
No mysterious mixture to get just right that can change from session to session, just get good coverage with it closed and then let it evaporate. I can mix up a batch and use it across seasons.
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If it works for you that's all that matters.
I like the alcohol diluted version.
My usual batch is 8 lbs, I use normall full strength coating solution but I swirl the bullets with 2 ml of metho (denatured alcohol) first,for a wet look. Then add 8 ml of solution as instructed, swirl normally. Gives more time and coats the grooves.
I used to pre mix the diluted versions in their own bottles but ended up with an uncontrollable amount of bottles... "Yeah,I'll remember what's in this one..." Sure.
wlkir
I do the covered tumble myself. Put the bullets in add the coating and cover. Then tumble for about 30 seconds and dump. It does do a good coat. More tumble time.
Been signed off since November. Had a lot of other stuff. What's been happening? Learned that Donnie had retired. And now it is Alan Esterly hpbulletcoatings@gmail.com. What else have I missed.
Joe
If you are not still out sick could you email me the MSDS on the coatings?
Last edited by Avenger442; 01-10-2021 at 04:55 PM.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
I apparently hit a certain speed / pressure / alloy limit now.
My 3" barreled S&W 500 shoots a TMG Gold coated 305 grain NOE at chronoed 1470 fps. 40 grns N110, a mild starting load. Nice and easy. No leading for years.
I was shooting the 500's 8" version today and got some leading at the last 2"-3" near the muzzle. It sure feels more powerful, Vihtavuori suggests 1870 fps for that load/barrel length.
Will a harder alloy help or just slow down? I like these milder loads, can shoot more ,there's a limit my bad rotator cuff wants to take. This is no children load from 8" anyway.
Petander
Do you have a guess at what the pressure was with that load?
Also what is your BHN of the bullet?
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
Hello Avenger 442
I have requested Alan Esterly to supply you the latest MSDS,
hpbulletcoatings@gmail.com
You should have it by now.
With my being sick, so far all is well with what has been done by specialists.
I am OK and back to work, and am flat out with orders, and have no time for being sick.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |