I would lap it (either by hand or fire lapping) then try thicker paper.
I've seen rifles shoot pretty well with pits so big, if you saw them on the road you'd avoid them with your car.
Former cylindersmith.
Hello All
Saltner, you live in Italy,
Pedersoli is in Gardone, Italy
Can you not get them to replace the barrel?
https://www.davide-pedersoli.com/gun...-pedersoli.asp
Happy New Year
Mike
NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95
Many on this Forum claim that boiling water can cause flash rust. Might want to eliminate the boiling water during the cleaning process. Use water right from the tap.
I've already talked to Pedersoli and he told me to go to the factory to see what to do.
But I already know that you will want to replace me and rightly paying.
But I don't know if I will, I wouldn't want to have the same problems in a few years.
Maybe I change brands or replace the barrel by a craftsman who uses excellent barrels.
Weapons are like money ... no one ever has enough
If it is not too inconvenient I would go to Pedersoli and see what they say. If they want you to pay for a new barrel, then you can say "no thanks" and go get a custom barrel made to fit.
I assume it does not shoot well anymore?
If it were me and I lived in Italy where the gun was made I would take several days to visit the factory and have them look at the barrel and discuss costs and such things and work out a deal to get a new barrel. I would also ask to see inside the new barrel before it is installed and even ask to watch the barrel replacement. Since the barrel is probably the most important part of any muzzle loader I imagine they would agree. I would also get their instructions on shooting and cleaning as I know I got a copy with the one I got even though it was used.
One thing that surprised me was when shooting their 520 grain grease groove bullet the instructions said to cast in pure lead, insure the base was perfect and lightly seat the bullet directly on the powder! So when I shoot their bullet I do not use a wad but with the heavier 540 grain bullet or my 560 grain paper patch I use a .060 fiber wad. Good luck.
John
My muzzleloader I'm sure looks a lot like that, I'm hunting with it tomorrow.
I have seen barrels far worse than that shoot very well.
I wish I could visit the Pedersoli factory! But I would have to leave my credit cards at the hotel.
Been shooting muzzleloaders a very long time. probably 10lbs of powder a year Boiling hot water does cause flash rust. It does not clean fouling better IMO. Room temp water is fine. The avoidance also of petroleum products for rust preventatives are a recipe for rust. If you dont want the heavy tar from it mixing with black powder. Clean it with denatured alcohol before going shooting.
All the barrel seasoning and natural product hoopla is just that...hoopla. I know many have used nothing but and had no problems. But many people have ruined their guns with "natural" stuff. These barrels dont need seasoning.
Ballistol is a good product. Alot of uses but a master of none. Especially long term storage. It does not displace moisture. It mixes with it! Any corrosion test Ive ever seen it doesent do well. But Ive used many bottles of it. And still like it as a cleaner.
A builder in Tenn of flintlocks Tip Curtis told me he cleans the barrel with water , Dries it and then wipes it out with Hoppes 9. And hes built a few thousand guns. I just clean with water wipe it out good. Then flush with a water discplacing oil like Wd 40. Then a rust prevenative.
For a barrel Like Saltner. I would go the Kroil route that someone explained. Soak the bore in Kroil. Leave it for a while. I would then try some bore paste like JB on a very tight jag and see what happens. Saltner that barrel might be Ok
Ok Im ready to be pounded now for not liking "natural products and Ballistol for rust protection. Be easy on me fellas
Not me... I’m a fan of water or soap and water for cleaning and after it’s dry protect the metal with Eezox. Others tell me that Barricade has many of the same great qualities. It’s as good a metal protectant as anything available and better than most of what’s available. Does not mix with water and is in fact heavier than water. Dries to a clear protective film which is of course waterproof and very very thin. Doesn’t seem to react at all to blackpowder combustion the way petroleum products do so there is no need to remove the protective coating before loading up to go hunting or shooting at targets.
I like Eezox also and Gunslick Gun Seal. Nothing beats RIG grease for long term storage.
I just have been in the habit now to wipe out the bore with denatured alcohol and a couple patches before snapping caps and then loading. I dont mind that. I wipe out all my centerfires too before going to the range.
Running a rod thru any gun before firing is a good idea.....there have been many incidents here caused by wasps building in barrels......One particular kind here build with the gum of the acacia ,a sort of hard yellow solid......very quick too,one tiny wasp can build a considerable deposit in a few hours ....not to mention a hundred different kinds of mudwasps.
The easy way to avoid the corrosion damage of rifling caused by burnt powder residue , shoot a smoothbore
Hmmmm. I'd be dismayed on seeing one of my barrels looking like that, but it definitely looks retrievable. Like others have posted, the first order of business is to clean and take another look. Then shoot it and see what results you get. If it tends to foul faster than before, you could also do some minor pressure-lapping to smooth off the edges of any pits. It should foul less then. That's been my experience. Paper patching is another option which also tends to smooth barrel steel.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |