get me a picture of the rear of the unit were the fan is.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
Will do, I'll get more light in there too
Cogno, Ergo, Boom
If you're gonna be stupid, don't pull up short. Saddle up and ride it all the way in.
Wow, RCBS really doesn't want ya digging in there - what a pain ! But I'm up for it !!!
Pics upcoming.
Now I gotta drill out some more rivets to get to the probe - that has to move ! Preferably to into the melt.
By the way what do you think of the cheepie "PID's" on Amazon ? Looking for a controller for the PC oven - tired of being a human PID. haha
Cogno, Ergo, Boom
If you're gonna be stupid, don't pull up short. Saddle up and ride it all the way in.
The "black box" in the last pic is the dealie that was zip tied to the PID. No markings what so ever on it.
Third from last pic shows RCBS tried to seal the tab that unlocks the PID from the housing, haha
Last edited by Gunslinger1911; 12-12-2020 at 06:13 PM.
Cogno, Ergo, Boom
If you're gonna be stupid, don't pull up short. Saddle up and ride it all the way in.
Haha, I have NO electrical talent at all !! (chemist by trade- caster/reloader by hobby).
Those little electrons jumping around all over the place give me the willies !!!
I did put a new plug on an extension cord once though - so I have that going for me.
I'll take more pix as I gut this critter more (you know, you may end up with this thing on your door step !
Thanks for the link to the PID, ordered it. I'll be bugging you on how to wire it.
Cogno, Ergo, Boom
If you're gonna be stupid, don't pull up short. Saddle up and ride it all the way in.
The hookup should be about the same as what you took off.
That company that you ordered the PID from is the same one I deal with.
It’s a good device.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
Don’t remove anything else right now
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
OK
Do you think the new PID will compensate for the issue of the old PID reading 750 and the alloy still solid ?
I was thinking maybe the probe actually in the melt ?
Cogno, Ergo, Boom
If you're gonna be stupid, don't pull up short. Saddle up and ride it all the way in.
Won’t know until we set it up.
It doesn’t take long to tear that apart again if we have to.
The unknown thing is what ‘type’ of thermocouple is installed?
They have several different types.
All are different letters.
This has to do with the curve it reports the temperature.
Example.
One type may say 500f is 7.34
Another type may say 500f is 10.28
And another night say 500f is 3.45
Does that make sense? Keep in mind these are just figures to show a example of the curve.
Also the different types have ratings limits on the range of temps they can be used on.
The type that most people use is ‘K’.
Magma Engineering uses ‘J’
The PID can be configured to accept a wide range of ‘types’
OK, thanks again ! This is great info !
I'll hold off any more tear down until we get the new PID in and see what happens.
Another thing; what would your thoughts be on having the PID outside the housing so I don't have to mess with the 2 hour cool down ?
Once I'm comfortable with that PID, would getting another one work for my PC oven ? I guess I'd have to get a thermocouple also.
Sorry for all the questions, science nerd !
Cogno, Ergo, Boom
If you're gonna be stupid, don't pull up short. Saddle up and ride it all the way in.
ok..
This is the idea I have.
It is easiest to replace the PID with the same size unit initially.
This will eliminate the PID as a issue.
If the unit works correctly after that then we can make some changes that will not cost you a pile of money but will extend the life on the unit.
but lets make the machine work first.
2 hr cooldown? never heard of that.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
Gotcha Sir !
Have I said "Thanks !"
Yea, the cooldown.
RCBS says that you have to set the PID to "0" temp, and let it cool to less than 160 deg so the PID doesn't fry.
I have been letting the pot level go down as I finish up a casting session, set temp to zero, add a bunch of ingots to help cool, have fan blowing on it.
From owners manual -
1. Depress SET button, display will begin to flash.
2. Use “V” , “ V”, and “V ” buttons to set SV temperature to 0o F, this will turn off Pot heating.
3. The fan will continue to run to cool unit.
4. When unit cools down and PV display reads 160o F, unplug AC cord from unit to completely power down unit
Cogno, Ergo, Boom
If you're gonna be stupid, don't pull up short. Saddle up and ride it all the way in.
that is stupid.
You could simply install a toggle switch between the PID and the SSR.
Basically switch the switch and wait.
No more changing temp
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
or a delay on break relay for the fan so the fan runs 10 mins after the pot is unplugged.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |