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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #3081
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by o416 View Post
    Just saw this file:
    Drop_Hole_Proximity_Sensor_Extension

    What is it for?
    Man you don't miss a thing do you?

    It is part of GWS's proximity sensor solution. It adds some extra length for feeding smaller bullets more reliably. I will let him explain it further since it is his design.

  2. #3082
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    Man you don't miss a thing do you?

    It is part of GWS's proximity sensor solution. It adds some extra length for feeding smaller bullets more reliably. I will let him explain it further since it is his design.
    Nope lol

    My attitude is do it right, or don't do it at all Can be a pain in the *** sometimes haha

    I figured that's what it is for. I put it down as an optional part in the manual.

    I sent you v1.4, have a look!

  3. #3083
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    Quote Originally Posted by o416 View Post
    Nope lol

    My attitude is do it right, or don't do it at all Can be a pain in the *** sometimes haha

    I figured that's what it is for. I put it down as an optional part in the manual.

    I sent you v1.4, have a look!
    Just sent feedback. You nailed it man. Only found one misspelled word. Everything else we have been talking about you covered. Outstanding job.

  4. #3084
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    Just sent feedback. You nailed it man. Only found one misspelled word. Everything else we have been talking about you covered. Outstanding job.
    Thanks Tyler!

  5. #3085
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    New manual has been posted.

  6. #3086
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    I must say, This newer design is real nice..... I ordered the Greartisan JGY-370 Motor, so that Base is next up on the printer....

    ESun PLA+

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #3087
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    Has anybody had their hex coupler destroy a collator plate? Mine just did lol It carved through my large brass one

    I don't know why that happened, but when I put the plate in the collator, I would say 1-2mm of the coupler protrudes out of the hex slot.

    I was thinking about increasing the height of the collator plate from 8mm to maybe 10mm but I am worried that they won't tip over during collation.

    Tyler, what do you think? I would rather not pin the motor shaft.

  8. #3088
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    Quote Originally Posted by o416 View Post
    Has anybody had their hex coupler destroy a collator plate? Mine just did lol It carved through my large brass one

    I don't know why that happened, but when I put the plate in the collator, I would say 1-2mm of the coupler protrudes out of the hex slot.

    I was thinking about increasing the height of the collator plate from 8mm to maybe 10mm but I am worried that they won't tip over during collation.

    Tyler, what do you think? I would rather not pin the motor shaft.
    I made mine with a screw slot even though it wasn't necessary as I grinded my set screw and made it flush with the coupler. I am wondering if that created a weak spot for me. I made one without a set screw hole and will see how that works.

    Regardless, any feedback would be great

  9. #3089
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    Quote Originally Posted by o416 View Post
    Has anybody had their hex coupler destroy a collator plate? Mine just did lol It carved through my large brass one

    I don't know why that happened, but when I put the plate in the collator, I would say 1-2mm of the coupler protrudes out of the hex slot.

    I was thinking about increasing the height of the collator plate from 8mm to maybe 10mm but I am worried that they won't tip over during collation.

    Tyler, what do you think? I would rather not pin the motor shaft.
    The Coupler should not matter if it sticks further through... did it spin around during a jam? I've had my MBF motor do that to a plate as well.... My solution was to print a 80% infil plate to make it stronger...

  10. #3090
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anuccite View Post
    The Coupler should not matter if it sticks further through... did it spin around during a jam? I've had my MBF motor do that to a plate as well.... My solution was to print a 80% infil plate to make it stronger...
    I am not sure if there was a jam but the coupler was spinning inside the shaft cut out and deformed the hex shape.

    More infill is not a bad idea, but I only need it at the top of the hex handle. I think Cura may have a setting for that.

  11. #3091
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    Andar just want to throw out there. If you don't mind printing the drop tube adapters for the 4 imperial sizes of those pipe bender springs and see if they fit, I would appreciate the feedback.
    Will do, just need to wait for the little one to go for a nap so I can get everything sliced up.

  12. #3092
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    There is a cool feature in Cura called support blocker that allows you to pick different print settings at different layer heights

    I will print the handle at 100% while leaving the rest at 20% and see how that goes.

  13. #3093
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    Quote Originally Posted by o416 View Post
    There is a cool feature in Cura called support blocker that allows you to pick different print settings at different layer heights

    I will print the handle at 100% while leaving the rest at 20% and see how that goes.
    It would be nice If you could make a circle around the center of the whole plate and make that area 100%

  14. #3094
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anuccite View Post
    It would be nice If you could make a circle around the center of the whole plate and make that area 100%
    That is what this feature (support blocker) lets you do. You make a cube around the area and select your settings for it. Anything within that cube gets those settings.

  15. #3095
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    Quote Originally Posted by o416 View Post
    That is what this feature (support blocker) lets you do. You make a cube around the area and select your settings for it. Anything within that cube gets those settings.
    Oh, So not just specific whole layers.... I will check that out

  16. #3096
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by o416 View Post
    Has anybody had their hex coupler destroy a collator plate? Mine just did lol It carved through my large brass one

    I don't know why that happened, but when I put the plate in the collator, I would say 1-2mm of the coupler protrudes out of the hex slot.

    I was thinking about increasing the height of the collator plate from 8mm to maybe 10mm but I am worried that they won't tip over during collation.

    Tyler, what do you think? I would rather not pin the motor shaft.
    I just posted a version of the generator that will add a couple mm to the top of the handle for hex. If its is still not high enough you could probably go to 10 on the plate without issue for large brass.

  17. #3097
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    I just posted a version of the generator that will add a couple mm to the top of the handle for hex. If its is still not high enough you could probably go to 10 on the plate without issue for large brass.
    Thanks Tyler! Making the handle larger makes more sense

  18. #3098
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    Man you don't miss a thing do you?

    It is part of GWS's proximity sensor solution. It adds some extra length for feeding smaller bullets more reliably. I will let him explain it further since it is his design.
    Nope not bullet, smaller brass. And since the top mounted Proximity Sensor housing is purged from the database, you probably won't need that part, since putting the sensor low just above the feed die TylerR style won't stop bullets or cases anywhere near the turn plate.

    What I ran into (only on .223 cases) was the bullet stack would stop 1/4" above the outlet, proud into the turning plate and bind it all. The system was just too fast to stop them in time. That extension just gave it another case length above the sensor to stop the turning plate before that case dropped. /308 cases stop sooner and have no problems.

    The reason I built my feeders (pre 3dprinter and post 3dprinter) to stop bullets and cases after filling the tubes, was that that was the way it was done then....Dillon, RCBS, Hornady case feeders all.....and since the early bullet feeder dies all required "stack weight" to work. Mounting switches low is new. Maybe better for most, but new.

    Only aggravation for low is wires in the way of things that have to be dealt with.....and as long as the short stack works.....fine.
    Last edited by GWS; 12-24-2020 at 12:37 PM.

  19. #3099
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    Nope not bullest, smaller brass. And since the top mounted Proximity Sensor housing is purged from the database, you probably won't need that part, since putting the sensor low just above the feed die TylerR style won't stop bullets or cases anywhere near the turn plate.
    What do you mean purged from the database? All your stuff is in the download, and covered in the manual as well. Unless I missed something.

  20. #3100
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    Nope not bullest, smaller brass. And since the top mounted Proximity Sensor housing is purged from the database, you probably won't need that part, since putting the sensor low just above the feed die TylerR style won't stop bullets or cases anywhere near the turn plate.

    What I ran into (only on .223 cases) was the bullet stack would stop 1/4" above the outlet, proud into the turning plate and bind it all. The system was just too fast to stop them in time. That extension just gave it another case length above the sensor to stop the turning plate before that case dropped. /308 cases stop sooner and have no problems.

    The reason I built my feeders (pre 3dprinter and post 3dprinter) to stop bullets and cases after filling the tubes, was that that was the way it was done then....Dillon, RCBS, Hornady case feeders all.....and since the early bullet feeder dies all required "stack weight" to work. Mounting switches low is new. Mayb e better for most, but new.

    Only aggravation for low is wires in the way of things that have to be dealt with.....and as long as the short stack works.....fine.
    GWS, your 4 files are located in the Adapters folder. Nothing was purged

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check