Do they still make core molds????
I have a few Lyman and one Ideal.
I've looked on the web to see if they are still being made with no luck.
Do they still make core molds????
I have a few Lyman and one Ideal.
I've looked on the web to see if they are still being made with no luck.
corbin makes them, btsniper makes them, and I believe noe makes them. your googlefu is very weak padowan
if you are ever being chased by a taxidermist, don't play dead
I don't believe Lyman makes them anymore.
If you are searching for a price, In January, I sold a couple single cavity Iron Adjustable Core molds in S&S, they looked like they were made by Lyman, but didn't have any markings on them. one sold for $30, the other sold for $22. If you need more details/photos, Search for the thread in "Completed Deals".
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
Thanks.
I am trying to find out what they sell for.
Saw one on evil bay.
Went for crazy money.
There were two on ebay earlier this month, they sold for $30 and $36.
I got frustrated finding one at a decent price so I'm attempting to make one. Got a 2 cav mold blank to start with and a 0.185 reamer.
Anyone have any advice on how far down to drill? Should I just make it as long as possible and cut to weight or would it be reasonable to shoot for a 45 grain slug so they can go right into the jacket? I have no idea how deep to make the cavities.
Charts for calculating weight of cores are here. http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/...LLY-Be-Helpful
Post #8 is where Gitano helped a lot. You still have to do some math.
I have cut a few core molds on my mill. My best results are from placing a piece of paper between the mold blocks. The sticky notes handy are .003 thick so I call X center .6258*+ .0015 = .6273" from the edge of the block.
*measure your block, and spacer paper.
If you happen to be in driving distance, stop by. I will set it up you can click "cycle start"
Last edited by clodhopper; 06-01-2020 at 09:01 PM.
To lazy to chase arrows.
Clodhopper
That's perfect Clodhopper! Not sure how good of a product I can make with my super cheap Chinese Harbor Freight drill press
You could drill holes ok, but if the holes are not centered on the parting line of the blocks the cores do not want to fall out.
Don't mount the blocks on the handles until after drilling the cavities. The fasteners are cleverly designed to not come back out without a struggle.
To lazy to chase arrows.
Clodhopper
So, what's the purpose of the paper? Wouldn't that slightly increase the volume of the cavity?
The paper gives .0015 fudge room on both sides of center. So if your hole is off center just a little bit, the casting will still fall out of the mold.
When you remove the paper the cavity is reduced in volume.
To lazy to chase arrows.
Clodhopper
What diameter does the Lyman 38 S core mold produce?
Anyone know off hand?
If you are looking for yourself, I would just find a bullet mold that is smaller in diameter then I want and about the weight I need to get to the finished weight of the bullet I am making. If it is heavier, you can always bleed off excess weight. I then let the core forming and seating dies do the rest.
A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.
That's pretty much what I've been doing, too. I use .32 caliber bullets for cores for .357" bullets, .357" bullets of various weights for cores for .400", .410" and .429" diameter bullets. A .400" bullet works for a core for .452" diameter bullets. All are cast from lead that measures Bhn 6.
Hope this helps.
Fred
After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.
Both Corbin's make them. I have one from each, one has longer handles than the other.
I will add the core molds I have from Corbin are pretty tall. They don't fit under some of my melters very well.
Corbin recommend a ladle pour and mine are bottom pour models. I have fire brick under the legs, with a homemade rail to slide the molds in and out.
I have a warped 10 cavity H&G #50 mold that i am considering making into a core mold for larger caliber bullets.
It is a shame to do it but I don't think it can be rehabilitated to produce good quality boolits.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |