Rub some powdered graphite on the barrel and contact surfaces sure slicks them up.
Once every 5 yrs or so.
Rub some powdered graphite on the barrel and contact surfaces sure slicks them up.
Once every 5 yrs or so.
The RCBS is the winner, hands down. Charges at 42.0 and 45.5 are consistent enough for my purposes, especially considering the denominator in the % accuracy.
I really tried to make a Dillon work, but it just wouldn't -- more variance than I was comfortable with at the top end of my 30-06 loads for a Garand.
How consistent are the Uniflow measures? I suspect the manufacturing tolerances are not as tight as some other measures. Mine doesn’t do well at all with H4895. It’s sometimes +/- a grain or more. My Dillons and old Saeco are both much better than the Uniflow for H4895. I haven’t tried my Lyman 55 or Belding & Mull with H4895. My Chargemaster is as accurate as a 5-0-5 balance.
Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris
I bulk load 30-06 & 223 using 4895. The measure I use is the RCBS. If the throw is smooth it doesn't vary. If the handle pauses in stroke I dump the charge & throw again. Never a problem this way.
try the lee this measure throw accurate weight with stick powder.
Lee with stick powders.
Three44s
Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207
“There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”
The Redding BR 30 works well for me. Surprisingly when loading on the dillon their powder measure does well also, I suspect because of the consistent operation. My best is a harrels standard.
I like a cup base measures with stick powders.
GONRA wonders if ANYBODY has outgefiggered how to "measure" 800X powder?
Perfect for my .45 ACP 1928 Thompson SMG but have to weigh every charge on my Dillion 650. @#$%^
I like the Lyman 55 with a knock at the top of the stroke and a knock at the bottom .
But they do cut extruded powder. I used a 55 for so many years that when I use any measure my right middle finger looks for the knocker at the top and bottom of each throw of the lever 🙂
Just IMHO..............
The accuracy of any powder measure is operator dependent. Experiment, determine & practice your best results technique & then do it the same for every throw.
Hard times create strong men, strong men create good times, good times create weak men, and weak men create hard times.
You make a good point... but only up to a point. My experience is mostly reloading on an autodrive (1050, Revolution). Takes the technique out of it. Dillon just doesn’t drop stick very well. Hornady much better. I have no experience with Lyman and my huge PM on the PC7 was never great (but that could be technique as the press itself was a mess to run).
The cheap crap Lee PM that came with Lee turret many years ago did drop stick pretty dang good. It leaked fine ball powder all over though.
Three44s - GONRA uses HS-6 for 9mm UZI SMG blasting.
Use 231 for subsonic suppressed blasting though. (Sounds like a woodpecker!)
Not on a progressive. As odd as it sounds, if you are careful, the Lee dippers are the most accurate way to measure 800x. They can still vary plus or minus .2 grains though, but it is more accurate than a powder measure, and you no longer get those odd super high or low charges likely due to bridging. 800x is a phenomenal powder if accuracy is the game.
I've had a multitude, RCBS Uniflow & Lil Dandy, Lee disc, 2 Lyman 55s, CH bar style, 2 Dillons old & auto, MEC, Redding, Quinetics. I still have: the Dillons, the Redding, the Quinetics, & one Lyman. I found the sliding bar type to be more consistent if difficult to set. Especially with bar type powders. You might understand why I kept Dillons. The Quinetics is plastic & could wear quicker than brass or steel, & has a rather small chamber. But when dropping 2-3 in a case the variations tend to be more statistically accurate meaning the end result has a tighter standard deviation range. The Redding is not made anymore, the swing style. However when I need to charge large stick powders in large quantities at near max grains, the Redding is THE goto. It's slow, sometimes when you pull the measure from under the body a few grains get away, you have to dump & measure again. I find I can measure Magnum rifle cases within .1g in most cases. Rarely does it drop .2g difference. One of them has had so much powder the "clear" plastic hopper is dark gray.
Basically for most reloading the Quinetics is most used, loading trays while the favorite TV is on in a recliner. Comfy. If loading large cases I used the Redding, gotta be careful when close to max. Perhaps even trickle some if they are really hot.
You note I haven't mentioned the Lyman. Had one decades ago, confusing adjustments, not accurate. Next time I get the PIF box it may go for a ride. The first Lyman was traded, this one is in good shape but a real antique. But I don't need 6 measures.
I confess not trying the "match grade" measures. I'd rather spend $$ on the next Lady for the herd, or unfortunately bills.
they all work, it's just how you operate it that determines consistency
What LAH said — if it doesn’t bind badly, its really accurate.
I will try to do 20 charges and post the statistics. Anecdotally, I didn’t get more than .2 variance at 45.5 intended charge.
The “minor” binds were still within .2. I know you didn’t feel what I mean by minor, but I did.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |