Good checkering tools should be file hard, that being said, you wont hurt them when passing them thru the brass pins which are more than likely a 300 series pin. (Yellow brass).
Find a picture of something where this has been done and realise how good it looks!
You could also use a very fine 3 corner file to remove the majority of the stock and clean up with the checkering tools. Just about anything would be easier than trying to "go around them"
My $.02 worth.
I would shape/contour the wood and then decide if I even wanted to checker it. Next time maybe plot the (fewer) rivets to encompass a minimal tasteful checkering pattern?
I've made a couple dozen knives over the last 30 years and have yet to use one rivet. I had the bright idea of moderately "swiss cheesing" the tangs (full tangs) and slathering everything up with thickened epoxy, letting the epoxy flow through the holes and in effect becoming internal invisible pins. Everyone said I was nuts, but I have never had scales come off a knife. Ever.
Have done the same as gnoahhh, and also, have yet to have one come apart.
I suggest making a mock up with pins and practice a couple times to get a feel for the difference and see how it does.
Thanks for your suggestions. I plan to practice on a scrap first. Maybe a diamond that avoids some of the pins? Likely try one as 'gnoahhh' suggests too. Tom
That is impressive bmortell. I really like that handle.
Maybe try three diamonds that are checkered down the center and avoid the pins? Like a reverse diamond pattern.
Thanks i spent a night on design, and then 50hrs on the knife, 10hrs on the leather
I think the most important part is prototyping with poster paper first, here i show on top is the first prototype, then i played with the mark 1 paper knife for a while, get a feel for what dimensions need to move where. Then trace it on paper and redraw some lines, cut out and play with it again. Repeat over and over till you got the coolest paper knife ever lol. So the picture is something like mark 1, mark 5, then the knife itself is about mark 10. the sheath has its own series of paper prototypes but i didnt keep any.
I went with with african blackwood for a black forend tip, and royal ebony for the rest because its marbled with black for contrast. Blade is 1095 oil quenched and tempered to about 57 hardness. Making the handle was standard epoxy pins and clamp style of making other than fitting the forend tip but they got epoxied together first. But i did swiss cheese the tang and the inner surface of scales as others were talking about. But i think it does a good job showing that you dont need to be a professional to make a nice looking blade
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |