How do you test to know that your jackets are completely annealed prior to swaging them in the swage press? I don’t want the jackets to destroy my expensive dies.
How do you test to know that your jackets are completely annealed prior to swaging them in the swage press? I don’t want the jackets to destroy my expensive dies.
i over anneal them, its not like they need to be able to be used more than once. they get really orange down in the lead pot.
if you are ever being chased by a taxidermist, don't play dead
I test them by squeezing them between my thumb and index finger. If I can mash the jacket mouth, or even really dent it, then the jacket is dead soft.
Hope this helps.
Fred
After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.
Commercial jackets are "harder/firmer" than annealed brass cases. The squeeze test as mentioned is right to see if it is soft. I've annealed commercial drawn jackets for 2 reasons. Reason one is when i extreme swage like .308 to .329. No split jackets and the base forms easier. Next I will try .308 to .338.
The other reason is for hunting bullets. If it gets bonded it obviously gets annealed. But if I want it to mushroom instead of tear apart I anneal the jacket.
Microscopic grit is our worst enemy so washing after annealing removes oxides and more grit that heating has released.
Last edited by Gew; 12-30-2019 at 02:03 AM.
What caliber jackets? And what are you using for a jacket?
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I am going to use 22 long rifle cases for both .224”, .251”, and 9mm cases for .357” bullets. (.223 remington, .25 acp, .357 magnum). I have a small front loading kiln for annealing.Originally Posted by BT Sniper;479 4338
By the way I was told that if I over anneal it could also cause problems during the point form operation? I believe wrinkles could form if the brass case was too soft? Not sure if there’s some truth into that. Any help and tips is appreciated.
I over annealed 22 cases one time and they were too soft, so as soon as they start turning a dull orange in a dark room I stop.
Last edited by Gew; 01-05-2020 at 06:58 PM.
You use citric acid in hot water to clean the brass, and then dry it thoroughly.
Hope this helps.
Fred
After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.
Are there certain mix that’ll work best or just pour in orange juice and call it a day?(just kidding on the orange juice) But where would I get pure citric acid from? Wal mart?
If you want pure, food grade, citric acid, you can get it from dudadiesel.com. I bought ten pounds of it, which is a lifetime supply, but you can also make lemonade from it, too.
https://www.dudadiesel.com/search.php?query=citric
Hope this helps.
Fred
After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |