Get the short arbor fixed and then set the barrel/ cyl clearance at .003" (max, smaller is better) and then you can shoot "normal" loads without any problems.
Mike
Get the short arbor fixed and then set the barrel/ cyl clearance at .003" (max, smaller is better) and then you can shoot "normal" loads without any problems.
Mike
Last edited by 45 Dragoon; 09-13-2019 at 08:50 AM.
"Got it all broke down and cleaned" Does that mean ALL the way down and clean? Spring, trigger, bolt, hammer out and clean? With the usual untouched barrel to cylinder fit found on these it will create a special kind of goo that will magically migrate into frame over time and with frequent shooting or term storage one should become familiar with in there also.
What diameter ball for these 44's? If I slug the barrel do I size the ball the same as I would regularly with modern cast? I see that Lee has them in a bunch of sizes which makes me wonder. I have a 36 that I use a .375 ball.
[QUOTE=45 Dragoon;4725491]Get the short arbor fixed and then set the barrel/ cyl clearance at .003" (max, smaller is better) and then you can shoot "normal" loads without any problems.
yeah good advice from Mike
Last edited by Pressman; 09-13-2019 at 07:58 AM.
Measure your cylinder, you want enough bigger ball to get a good seal in the chambers - My ASM likes a .451, a lot of em go better with .454 - I reckon ya want a ball at east 3 to 5 thou over cylinder size. Set up right these cheap ball guns will shoot as good as most centerfire pistols.
Then slug the barrel if you dont get it shooting nice - might need some semolina or cornmeal filler to take up the windage if cylinder is small compared to bore - some are .
Thanks for the recommendations and advice. It is very much appreciated!
Jay
I have a Remington 1858 in a box like that it is a early navy arms made by asm. don't worry about shooting the brass frame. you will go through many kegs of powder to do that. but do use pure lead only. pushing hard balls into the cylinder will wreck the gun.
In case you don't know...when seating the ball you should get an even shaving of lead all around the bullet. If you don't, go up in size. Many .44's used .451 round balls, but, there were a few out there that needed .454.
And do learn how to take apart the internals. If you shoot a lot with it the primer residue will get into the lock mechanism.
also think about using a .457 ball. that's what I use on my two bp .44's ones a 1851 and the other is a 1860. two fg powder or 777 are the powders that I use in these guns. with a cork/rubber patch under the bullet.
EuroArms is also a possibility - I have a Rogers and Spencer in a similar box.
Wayne the Shrink
There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!
You've probably figured out by now that the brass frame 1851 in .44cal is one of Pietta's "fantasy" guns that never existed historically, but satisfy all the requirements for the U.S. "antique" classification that means you can buy it thru the mail, etc. [unless you live in some benighted domain like New Jersey... frickin' buncha Tories!].
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |