I have searched and read what seems like a hundred threads on powder measures for Black Powder cartridge loading and I can't find what I think is a straight answer. I was into muzzleloading in the 1970's and 80's and am familiar with loading black powder for that application. I am loading 45 Colt for a New Service Target 455 Eley re chambered to 45 Colt with Metford rifling. I made dippers from 8mm Mauser brass for test loads. I'm trying to figure out what to use for "production" powder charging if the FFFG is successful. "Production" for me is a Bonanza CO-AX press, so not what others may mean, but 500 rounds with the dipper is not appealing. Depending on the accuracy of the drops I suspect I'll be throwing and trickling up.
I am not concerned with static electricity as I have grounded my measures. I have two measures set up on my bench, a Redding #3 I've had since the late '70's and Herters shotshell powder and shot measure. When loading shotshells I don't use the bars on my MECS. I measure the powder with the Redding and the shot with the Herters.
I AM concerned with iron on iron detonation potential.
In my searches some folks are saying the Redding will be safe. Others are in the brass rotor group. Still others are in the slide tube group, but it looks like those are brass on iron. So, here are the specific questions: Do I need to be concerned about iron on iron detonation with the Redding? What is the difference between a Lyman 55 and a Classic 55 Black Powder measure? I've checked the parts lists and the rotors, body and powder hoppers have the same part numbers. Is it just the metal powder hopper? I haven't called them but it appears the hopper is the only difference in the Harrell's. RCBS has a brass rotor. The discontinued Hornady had a brass rotor. The Belding and Mull gets a lot of praise but it looks clunky to me. The Ideal #5 gets praise. What's the difference in the #5 and the 55.
Sorry for the long rambling post. Some folks want a lot of detail. What am I missing? Is iron on iron a real concern? Are brass rotors the way to go?
Any enlightenment will be greatly appreciated,
Thanks,
Dan