If a touch hole is too low or isn't replaceable (drill in barrel only). would it be better to replace with a removable touch hole or deepen the pan.
If a touch hole is too low or isn't replaceable (drill in barrel only). would it be better to replace with a removable touch hole or deepen the pan.
I think it would depend for ME, on how much too low it is. I made the pan deeper on a Siler lock a number of years ago and it worked well but the barrel already had a liner in it. if there is no liner and there is just a hole I would have a new hole for a liner made using a milling machine with a end mill, not a drill bit. and make it centered on the top edge of the Pan.
You should relocate the touchhole to the center of the pan and above the bottom of the pan. Draw a line across the top of the pan and put the touchhole right across the line. Flame is hotter at the top so you don't want the powder in the pan to burn down to the hole but have it ignite with the top of the flame. Fill the old hole with a plug before you drill the new hole and use a 1/4 28 liner with the face of the liner filed and polished off plumb smooth. If done right you will get bang rather than whoosh bang.
I don't think I have the skill or tools to do that.
Every thing is relative that's why earlier i said I did deepen the pan on one and it worked fine, but it will depend on --how much too low-- your hole is, and make sure your hole is drilled 1/16" esp. if it is not a liner and is just drilled in the barrel
Vent liners should not be removed for cleaning. Period.
Follow KCSO's suggestion.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
It won't let me upload a picture for some reason but the hole is in bottom of pan at front of it.
Is there anyone y'all can recommend to fix it.
Might be time to go ahead and convert it to cap lock.
Looking at the pictures. I had one that was like that about 30 yrs ago and I made the Pan Deeper. and make sure the hole in the Barrel is 1/16" and do Not use too much Priming Powder. do not cover the hole with the powder mine worked fine. Most originals just had a Hole not a liner when they were made.
It does look like a machinest could fix it Right using an End Mill to make the hole in the proper location then tap the hole for and install a liner in the correct position .
Only you you can decide how much the Gun is worth and how much you feel you can do your self. I you lived down the road We would fix it Together.
I have a 1803 harpers ferry that the hole is way to low. I am plugging the old one and drilling a new one in the right location. yes I do have a milling machine.
i'd just use a dremel and add some depth.
thats not as low as it looked in the first pictures. One of my rifles has the pan almost level with the bottom of the vent hole and she shoots just as good as the "properly" set up rifles.
If you havent shot it yet, I would do so. 3 to 4 grains 4fg should do the trick.
Last picture is after deepening the pan.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |