only a couple bucks cheaper per 1000. Not enough to justify buying them over copper if cost is the only issue. Do they actually do something better?
only a couple bucks cheaper per 1000. Not enough to justify buying them over copper if cost is the only issue. Do they actually do something better?
I hear tell the copper ones are better over 2000fps. They are quite equal up to that point. I really havent noticed a difference with my shooting from 1000 to 2000 fps in multiple different calibers.
I make own from alluminum so the savings is great. Only takes a couple thousand checks for the tooling to pay for itself.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
"Speak softly and carry a big stick; you will go far."
~Theodore Roosevelt~
Seconding what RC said. Pick some aluminum checks up cheap to try then pick up a check maker. Its pretty cool watching the punching of disks and the cup forming, then applying your own check to your own boolit.
I hate to say it but a couple bucks makes a difference to me . Wife claims i will squeeze a nickel until the buffalo farts. I only just saw the aluminum for sale a few months ago so will try them next time i need them.
If you have a bad mold with a fat shank some of the thinner Al checks will go on easier and straighter than thick copper ones. My Lee 8mm mold has such a fat shank I have to buy the thinnest checks I can find or they won’t bottom out on the base.
NRA Endowment Member
Armed people don't march into gas chambers.
I have been pondering a GC maker for some time now. So, along with Lloyd Smale, I too am interested in hearing the "Pros & Cons" from those who have things figured out pretty well about the differences between the two.
2nd Amend./U.S. Const. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
~~ WWG1WGA ~~
Restore the Republic!!!
For the Fudds > "Those who appease a tiger, do so in the hope that the tiger will eat them last." -Winston Churchill.
President Reagan tells it like it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6MwPgPK7WQ
Phil Robertson explains the Wall: https://youtu.be/f9d1Wof7S4o
I got into making my own cause I couldn't afford to pay Hornady prices and I didn't find any other source before deciding I wanted to make my own. And I just like to do some things myself and farm others out. I cant advise on the difference, seems a non issue for me and the way I do things. But for a couple bucks I'd go with copper.
Good Judgment comes from Experience, Experience comes from Bad Judgment !
My concern has always been with aluminum galling, just like copper builds up but is removable, not sure about aluminum.
I have never noticed any build up with al or cu checks.
I make all my own checks from aluminum because I can. More for the fun of it but it does make the cost of checks almost nothing. I make my own check makers as well.
Last edited by rbuck351; 06-04-2019 at 12:19 AM.
I read somewhere (probably here) that aluminum will wear your barrel faster because of a thin layer of aluminum oxide that forms on them. I've also read claims that it is a different form of aluminum oxide and not a problem.
I really don't know; just throwing it out there. I occasionally use aluminum checks if I have them, but I prefer copper even if they cost a bit more.
Do aluminum beer cans work for checks. Or are they too thin?
I only purchase them when I need undersized checks and they are not available in copper. Don't think there is enough economic difference between the two. Especially, almost all of the ones I have purchased, have a nick on the edge.
Winelover
I have a freechex II I believe, for .45 caliber boolits. I'll use a Pepsi can that's cut and folded over to form the checks. I know that they are thinner than using flashing or copper checks but they do just fine. I also use them for the .44 SRH with no problems, although I did it at first just to see if I could...and to my surprise it worked!
Tom
μολὼν λαβέ
Did I ever mention that I hate to trim brass?
This is good to know about ,have anyone use AL flashing ,if so how it works. I have the first 22cal Freecheck that was made years ago and did not try it yet. I did bought the Gator checks. that cost less then Hornady. I did start with Lyman press on and then when to Hornady then I seen on here some time ago about the Gator ones and made a large order of all the ones I want. So for now I am set on them but always looking for different ideas to try out sometime.
Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA
What does the tooling cost?
http://freechex.net/photo_i.html
http://patmarlins.com/
and there is someone that makes them on this forum in the vendors section.
They run about $100 to $130 per caliber. Good stuff, lasts and like they said above, pays for it's self.
I think it is PatMarlin.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/memb...?722-PatMarlin
Do not think he is a vendor here any longer, but here is his webpage:
http://www.patmarlins.com/
I need to get a hold of him for some of my doins as well.
2nd Amend./U.S. Const. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
~~ WWG1WGA ~~
Restore the Republic!!!
For the Fudds > "Those who appease a tiger, do so in the hope that the tiger will eat them last." -Winston Churchill.
President Reagan tells it like it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6MwPgPK7WQ
Phil Robertson explains the Wall: https://youtu.be/f9d1Wof7S4o
I've used aluminum check without problems. I haven't used a whole lot of them, but never saw any difference between them and copper. I'm no metallurgist, but have a hard time believing galling or aluminum oxide would cause a problem.
One place where the aluminum would be an advantage is the plain based gas checks. I've only used a few on undersized bullets for the .351 WSL, and had a problem with some coming off in flight because they were designed for .358 diameter bullets, but I think the concept is good and I'm going to try some on regular .358 in a few things when I get to it.
Doesn't the bullet mold have to be designed for the gas check?
The plain based ones are made of very thin metal and slip over a plain based bullet and are then swaged on when you size them.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |