Cleaning lead from mold faces

[mjwcaster]

I have always dreaded cleaning lead from mold faces.
I tried everything I have read about.

I finally figured out that I wasn’t getting the mold hot enough before cleaning.

Really heated it up last night while heating lead last night.
Lead just fell off when scrapped with a wooden skewer, except for the spruce plate.
Heated it up some more and the lead just jumped off the spruce plate when cleaned.

It was so easy to clean up with the mold hot enough.


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[tazman]

That is exactly how I do it. I use a Popsicle stick with a squared off end.

[gnostic]

That's good to know, I was about to try 'lead wipe away cloth.'

[mjwcaster]

Use a hot plate to heat the mold up.
I use the second burner on my Coleman.
It the lead doesn’t just fall off when scrapped then it isn’t hot enough.

I even used to try using a torch on the spots of lead to heat them more, didn’t work too well.

I was afraid of over heating my molds before.
Now that I see how easy it is to remove lead I will gladly take the chance.

I just plan on keeping an eye on them, heat them up, try removing lead.
If it doesn’t just fall off, heat them up longer until it does.

While I do not know exact mold temperature, it seems to work better heated over best casting temperature.
I never had much luck cleaning a mold even when up to casting temp.


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[mdi]

Along with the methods mentioned above I often use a coarse cloth on a hot mold (casting temp). Works most of the time but occasionally I'll have to use tongue depressors...

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

If the lead alloy isn't "tinned" onto the mold, I've had success using a soft lead ingot as an "eraser" on a cold mold or cold sprue plate.

If the lead alloy is "tinned" onto the mold, I use a bamboo skewer and a tiny bit of beeswax on the mold that is heated up to casting temperature. Once the mold has cooled, I use WD40 to easily remove whatever tiny bit of beeswax remains, then clean again with dish soap and hot water. Be careful not to use too much beeswax, as it can scorch and leave a burnt residue on the mold, that is difficult to remove.

[ryan28]

That's how I do it now too. Melt that stuff off. Tried everything else, and nothing worked as well.

[Bazoo]

I heat the mould in the lead for a few minutes, then wipe with a rag when I'm done. If I'm casting and I don't want to slow down, I use a piece of wood for any offending spots. I color the bottom of the sprue plate and the top of the mould blocks with a pencil to keep smears easily removed and to lubricate.

[nun2kute]

I wondered if a pencil would work like that, but haven't got a "Round Tuit" yet. I used a popsicle stick and a piece of gunny sack to scrub with wile casting. Gotta hurry, it's HOT !

[Bazoo]

Someone here told me about the pencil trick. I also remove the sprue plate before casting and color the hole and pivot area thoroughly to lube. I use a carpenters pencil. When I'm casting if I get a smear of lead from cutting the sprue to quick, I wipe it off and color the bottom of the sprue plate while hot to keep the next smear from sticking. It works quite well. I lube the alignment pin holes with graphite too.

[Mal Paso]

That's good to know, I was about to try 'lead wipe away cloth.'

Those cloths are usually abrasive.

I also heat molds to clean them. Beeswax and sprue lube really help.

Amazon basics 6 inch cotton swabs are my go to tool. A little beeswax or sprue lube on the cotton end wipes off lead. The wood end is great for vent lines and tough spots.