I bought a kit of polishing compounds and mandrels. I have six blocks of grit in different colors, but nothing that tells me which color is which grit. Is there a standard for the colors or is there a way to find out which is which?
Thanks
I bought a kit of polishing compounds and mandrels. I have six blocks of grit in different colors, but nothing that tells me which color is which grit. Is there a standard for the colors or is there a way to find out which is which?
Thanks
Red is usually coarse. White is fine. I've seen black and green coarse as well.
You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.
For what it's worth, I have green for use on brass and copper.
The finest one I have is white, it will polish to a wonderful finish. A bit OT, but does anyone know what those little Dremel things that are like grit loaded pencil erasers are called and where can I find them?
In the tool room we had cratex rubber bonded diamond. once dressed they polished very well. Also had hand sticks in different sizes.
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A lot of times for polishing and light work we used a nylon brush ( cup, face, or wheel) and various rouges or diamond compounds. A Dremel at 20,000 rpm does okay a air frinder in the 50,000- 60,000 rpm does better My 100,000 rpm with the right mounted points is fast and quick. The brushes really do a nice even job.
With the sticks I have black is coarsest for heavy removal, brown is next. White is a medium, green is for soft materials and pre buff to get surface started, and red is for fine finishing. What I would recommend is take a small piece of scrap and test / practice a little. Better is to use several pieces of scrap of different materials ( brass, aluminuum, stainless , Steel, and even plastic). This not only shows what the different compound do but also gives you an idea of the what and how when it comes up.
Another thing for safety is 1) make sure the mounted points, mandrels, brushes are rated for your machines rpms. 2) when starting a freshly mounted point start it well under the bench top, And dress it under the bench top. this way the bench shields you if the shaft bends or the tool lets go ( explodes). Once dressed and running they are balanced and running true. Ive seen mounted grinding points turn dust when started, shafts bend, and chunks come off. In a wand or pencil grinder when a shaft bends its a real hand full to get turned off. Another is if possible start slow and speed up gradually as the point proves itself. Mount points as short as possible to the collet. The shorter mounting makes it a stiffer set up and helps
Mine goes red finest then brown white and black is the course . But different manufacturers may be different.
Years back I bought some polishing compounds that were literally about the about the size of bricks. Black,white,brown, grey, green and one other. In my limited experience with these narrowed it down to this, white is fine, green works good on brass and guns, brown is like an emery compound and still have not ID what the other does. They weigh about 6lbs apiece. Frank
I found that black my black is the best to start with and then pink. I have white, but haven’t tried it, because I don’t need any finer.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |