Reloading data for older powder lots

[ddcrawford]

In doing some cleaning out I found an unopened pound of each of 231, Bullseye and Red Dot powders I purchased in the 80's. I also have a Speer 1988 Reloading Manual. In comparing some data from the Speer manual and a copy of the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook 4th Edition there are pretty significant differences (I compared starting & max loads).

38 Special 158 gr cast from Speer manual compared to the new Lyman manual
Bullseye load is 26% higher
231 load is 11% higher

45 Colt 250 gr cast
231 load is 9% higher from Speer manual compared to the new Lyman manual
Red Dot is 7% higher

The interesting comparison is the 357 Mag Bullseye loads for a 158 gr cast where the older data is 15% lower than in the newer Lyman manual.

I know in general the older data typically calls out higher loads for the powders of the same time period. I'd like to know the reasons behind this, were the powders significantly different or were the loads more aggressive? I suspect it is a combination of the two but I'm very curious about it. In addition when I use this powder I'm not sure which data I want to use??

[JBinMN]

While this post may not be what you are looking for, I am prefacing my comments with the contact info for Winchester Western & Alliant so that you could use the contact info to ask directly from the manufacturers( the experts on their products) of the powders you mentioned:

Winchester Western - email, addresses and phone numbers:
https://wwpowder.com/company/contact-us/



Alliant - There is an email submission for, or down below at the bottom of the mailing address is a phone number you could call. http://www.alliantpowder.com/questions/default.aspx

I use both the older manuals loads, as well as the newer manuals loads for newer "vintage" powders, and when I run into them, older ones as well. I work up my loads from whatever manual I choose, & using the suggested/recommended START load data for the load & up to where I want to be, looking for over-pressure signs & performance. I also have a chronograph which will also help determine how things are going(velocity) as I test.

That is what "I" do, so I can mention to you, that you can do the same with the old powders, if you want, if they do not smell strange to you. As well as be doing so, "At Your Own Risk".

If they do stink, or smell, "off", fertilize your lawn &/or garden with the stinky powders.

Another test you "might" do, although it may be "inconclusive", is take some recent powder of the same amount as some old powder, ( say, 2-5 grains in weight preferably & "not" volume, as the old powder may have "condensed" over time.) & strike a match to the two, new & old & see if you think there is a difference in the burn speeds of the two. While not a real good conclusive test, it might demonstrate that the old powder is substantially different from the newer powder of the same type, and further testing is appropriate, or the other option of throwing the "fertilizer" out in the yard/garden.

G'Luck! whatever ya decide & I hope that the old powders are useful for their original purpose of shooting them, rather than being fertilizer. At the going rate of $25+/- each or better, it would be tossing around $75-80 bucks away unless you get a good crop in your garden or a plush lawn for your expense.


P.s. - I am going to bet that the others , including the powder mnfrs suggest you use the lowest of the manuals suggested Start loads, but the mnfrs may just suggest ya throw it away & buy more of their products to replace the old stuff & make some more $$ off of ya. Once again, G'Luck! whatever ya decide to do!

[ddcrawford]

Thanks for the good ideas JBinMN!

[RED BEAR]

You may want to check the alliant manual for the red dot and bulls eye they usually run at least 10% higher than other manuals for max loads. And this is the 2018 alliant manual.