A lot of variables rim thickness, pocket depth , the primer needs to seat and then you need to swage it a bit.
A lot of variables rim thickness, pocket depth , the primer needs to seat and then you need to swage it a bit.
I as others have used several types of priming systems. I don't like primers in tubes. A bit to much rattling around and priming compound sifts out and can collect in the tube and get set off. Then the whole tube blows.
I like the Lyman priming system as used on the 310 tool. A bit slow but you can actually see what is happening.
I tried the original Lee round tray and loved it. The only thing I didn't like was the handle pivoted wrong. When the came out with the Ergo-Prime I got one of those, much easier on the hands.
When Lee brought out their bench prime I deliberated for quite a awhile before trying one. Best money I ever spent. Dump the primers in, shake. close, install and prime away.
I did have a few problems at first but soon realized that if a let the handle jump back up on it's own, it jiggled the primers enough to feed right.
Since then no problems.
Leo
30 some yrs ago I started with a Rockchucker with auto prime and liked press priming over hand priming. A couple yrs later I went to a Lyman ST turret with the auto prime and still use it...and definitely don't plan on changing to hand priming.
For pistol I prime on the 550b. For rifle I prime on a Lyman AA by hand placing a primer in the primer punch cup. I takes almost no extra time as I dump a box of primers on the primer flipper and then insert them on the primer punch as the ram goes up to size and decap. Ram comes down to prime and on to the next step. The AA press has a primer punch that is very easy to access and primes at the bottom of the ram stroke so no extra ram movement to seat primer, raise ram to release primer arm and then lower ram. It's my favorite press for loading one round at a time.
Enjoyed this read,,,
My rockchucker has been priming all my shells one at a time for 25+ years. Its a pain to load them one at a time to prime, but I always knew it was in the casing. Keeping my fingers clean and hoping I dont foul the primer with case lube off the casings as I handle them one at a time.
I fairly recently got a LNL progressive. I hate the feel of the primer going in on the down stroke of the turret. I swear every 3rd or 4th shell didnt prime, I find myself pulling out a lot of casings to look to see if it is primed, they always are. Well they always are, unless I dont notice I ran out of primers.
I have never used a hand primer, dont know why I never tried one. Probably the money
Two things I’ve learned about priming: 1. A little grease on the friction points of a Lee priming tool, especially the cam, makes easier to use and it will last much longer. 2. If the bench for a progressive press is not very stiff and mounted to a wall or is otherwise immovable primers will flip within the press.
Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris
Press prime —> ram prime on press —> APS off press system—> RCBS Universal hand priming tool—> LEE Auto Bench Prime, my latest and favourite.
I am reloading for precision not speed and I find priming on the Co-ax gives me the most feel and consistent priming.
Started with the Lee whack a mole in 222 Rem. Then primed with my Rockchucker, but now my RCBS Bench primer.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |