You could cut and roll crimp plastic hulls to length .
You can also cut the crimp portion off plastic shells and use white glue to secure an over-shot wad. These work fine in break-open guns but might not feed well in pump or auto-loaders. Roll crimpers have never worked well for me with plastic hulls, Paper hulls, work fine but are increasingly rare.
There is a 12/70 proof mark on both barrels. The gun is 2 3/4" but it is also a black powder gun.
Here's a hot tip: Why don't you hang it up over your mantel, and just buy something newer to shoot that you don't have to worry about.
That gun has seen better days and the pitting on the barrels is a sign that it wasn't taken very good care of. That bluing coming off the barrels isn't bluing, it is paint.
Rather than trying to shoot something from a bygone era that is of questionable condition, you might just be better off retiring it.
I personally would not fire that gun with any kind of ammo unless I was in a life or death situation and had no other options.
Randy
"It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com
Did you ever figure out if the barrels were Damascus? I think you are on the right track with reduced loads and 2.5" shells. I'm always a little leery of 19th century Belgian shotguns, but mainly because most of the ones I see have been through at least two generations of heavy use. I have two on the wall right now, passed down in the family, split stocks and all.
Yours looks really nice!
This. ^^^^^^^
If you value your hands and your eyes, please do not shoot that gun.
I certainly would not shoot it with any smokeless loads, whether high brass, low brass, heavy or light - not ANY smokeless loads.
Black powder might be okay if the gun were in its original condition, but it's not. Not by a long shot.
After a century of obvious neglect and wear I wouldn't want to shoot that gun even with black powder.
No competent gunsmith will give you the OK to shoot that gun in its present condition. If someone does, that's a pretty good sign you shouldn't trust their judgment.
If you're determined to shoot it, look into having those barrels lined with modern steel. Liners and a careful tightening of the action could probably make it safe to shoot.
Plan to be sitting down when you get the quote on cost.
It's a wall hanger.
Yeah, I know you've been shooting it and it hasn't blown up yet.
That doesn't mean it can't blow up on the very next shot, or the one after that.
When it does blow, it's most likely to let go right about where you fingers are.
Or perhaps I should say where you fingers used to be.
Why push your luck?
Give it an honorable retirement to decorator status and use a modern gun for shooting.
Uncle R.
hang the old girl over the mantel & tell every body it was milard philmore's white house gun. he used to shoot trap off the roof with it.
now that I see it has visible pits, i'd just put it on display. you'd spend more than that $100 on your first trip to the e.r.
I know most people are telling em to use it as a wall hanger, but in all honestly that probably wont happen. Whatever I own I shoot. I own many rifles that were in worst condition then this. And they all shoot really nice. I own one or 2 modern guns. And modern I mean a mosin and sks.
No, they are all fine. And all in shooting condition. Doesnt mean because something is rusted that its useless. They still work just as well as they did 130 years ago! I got one rifle that was "rusty" checked out by a gunsmith. A really reputable one. He offered to buy it off of me for 12 times what I paid it. I got it for a super cheap price, so far i have gotten good offers on it. And by no means is the rifle restored or pristine.
From the picture provided, the shotgun appears to have the Belgian "definitive black powder proof for breech loading guns"
http://www.nramuseum.org/media/940944/proofmarks.pdf
the pressure developed by low brass is generated quicker and is just as high basically as your high brass loads.
If you worry about shooting Damascus vs fluid steel, you should try reading a couple of interesting articles by Sherman Bell in the Double Gun Journal entitled "Finding out for myself." I too was brought up to believe that Damascus was inherently weak and was slowly rusting between the layers etc. I have taken it upon myself to rid the shooting community of those beautiful but worthless old doubles. Just box them up & send them my way. I will make sure they don't accidentally blow up on anyone. I pay postage of course!
That looks like regular steel to me. Somebody must have painted it, and now it looks worse than it really is. The pitting is on the muzzle end. If it locks up tight, I don't see what the problem is. Those sidelocks are the ones known to crack the stock at the wrist. I wouldn't be shooting heavy loads in it. Guys a lot smarter than me shoot smokeless in old guns like that, you just have to be smart when loading. Take my advice for what it is though, my oldest shotgun is 1940 best I can tell.
Hang it up and get a much newer gun!
^^^^^^ what he said
Randy
"It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com
From my reading of it it was made between 1923 and 1952, proofed for black powder only, 2 3/4" chambers.
On that note it's best not to shoot smokeless in it, the later make then the original 1890's estimate means the barrels are most likely stronger but still not proofed for smokeless powder.
It's actually fun looking that sort of stuff up.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |