looks interesting, let us know what you think of it.
if you are ever being chased by a taxidermist, don't play dead
Use anti seize on the threads. Let us know how it works for you. I just ordered a couple for a Thompson Center Hawken.
SMOKELESS IS JUST A PASSING FAD!-STEVE GARBE
FORMER NJ HUNTER EDUCATION INSTRUCTOR
GOA LIFE MEMBER
SASS LIFE MEMBER
ADAPT, IMPROVISE, OVERCOME!
"ANY MAN WHO THINKS HE CAN BE HAPPY AND PROSPEROUS BY LETTING THE GOVERNMENT TAKE CARE OF HIM, BETTER TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT THE AMERICAN INDIAN!"-HENRY FORD
I have two rifles I use them on. One is an under hammer I made a couple years ago and the other is a custom made round ball target rifle. Both have a "flat" face on the hammer, not one with the indentation that is meant to reduce sparks from the percussion cap. Make sure to fire off a couple of the 209 primers to make sure there is enough travel to have the striker hit the primer. I would suggest using a small piece of high temp Teflon tape (yellow) wrapped around the threads so the body will back out easily. Several years ago when I bought mine thy came with a small allen wrench that fit inside just right, not sure now?
They make one hell of a spark but ae delicate so make sure to never strike yours with no 209 primer inside.
John
$10 per 100? WOW am I glad im stockpiled.
I have several made by Mag Spark and several made by Pedersoli. They are shaped slightly different with the Pedersoli having a slightly longer threaded section and they are black. The Mag Spark would be better suited for a powder drum or snail breach plug due to shorter threads and they are silver in color. When I first got the Mag Spark a fellow shooter said to use the Teflon tape so the body would come out easily and to pull it out right after shooting so no powder goop would build up. I also found I have to be very careful of the threads on both parts to keep them clean so no galling occurs. I have a cut off drill bit the exact size of the area where the primer sits and I use it like a scraper to get any soot build up out after every shot and I ground off the point of the drill bit. Lastly I wet the 209 primer body just before putting it in the body with a little spit so it will pop out easily as then can tend to get stuck. This does not affect the ignition in any way.
Both the rifle I have that use them have a very small vent hole just in front of the mounting position of the Mag Spark. I have been told by various folks it is to reduce the chance of excess pressure as the 209 primer generates much more spark than a percussion cap. Make sure to never strike the little firing pin w/o a 209 primer in place as it can get bent easily. Wiping the interior of the body is not a hassle once you get used to it. I always shake the cap before putting it on to make sure the striker/firing pin are loose so a good ignition will occur.
John
Our dollar is only about 73 cents US now - thats part of it - stupid regulations are part of it - small market too
I bought federa large rifle a few days ago, local gunshop (60 mile away) $85 per 1000
Every few weeks I go and stare at that stash of shotgun primers and wonder how can I use em.
Been using Mag Sparks on my side-locks since Obama's original 2008s component & ammo shortage. Seem to me to be my only option at the time >Mag Sparks. {209s were available in my local. CCI's #11 mag caps were as scares as hens teeth.} I know how to make percussion caps. Although I just don't care to putts with making em. (unstable primer powder.)
Injun joe is out in the sticks,I reckon.....i have been buying WW primers for $200-$220 per 5000 for years....Federal are mucho costo here,so I dont mess with em......Now if I had 15K shotgun primers ,I would just swap em for rifle,but if that wernt feasible,then I d be makin a Snider out of one of my muskets to use 28 ga plastics.Very simple conversion of a 58...just ream the chamber with a 5/8 hand reamer,as it has a nice lead in ,rather than the 45deg bevel of the machine reamer. I have already made a Snider from a Armi Jager,as that seemed the best use for it.....They dont sell for peanuts here,lot less than a barrel costs.
yer right - we have one decent gunshop between us and the simpson desert
I figure to buy just enough stuff there that they know me face when I walk in - support local has its limits but getting screwed on price twenty or thirty bucks every few months wont kill me - If I had rang ahead and dickered on price I expect they would have pruned it a decent bit for 5000 - had some dodgy to ignite Winchester stuff a while back and switched to Federal - like em - and its been a roundabout way of softening the trigger on my 76 uberti - backed the mainspring off heaps.
OK ---are you psychic or somethin!!! - how the heck did you know I had a 58 muzzle loader sitting on the rack that I didnt really know what to do with????? a Zoli mississippi rifle - AND - I have a mate in town with a Snider I could borrow to copycat the build ................... I really need another project .......like I need ................
Been using the same design for better than 20 years on my Renegade. Accra-Shot was the brand............only difference is that they take small pistol primers. Works for me, especially since I don't load shotgun shells. Thus, don't keep 209 primers, around. Small pistol primers, I stock by the tens of thousands. Advantages are a more reliable ignition, containment of potential shrapnel and prevention of the inadvertent loss of a percussion cap. I also purchased a extra hammer and modified it to a flat face. Only disadvantage is it takes a little longer to reload.............which isn't that big a deal when hunting, since your only getting one shot.
Winelover
Last edited by winelover; 09-23-2018 at 06:39 AM.
"Closed ignition systems" I.E. primers have been used since they were first invented as per Major Roberts' book where he covers them as a means to keep rain out of the ignition channel during a match when raining or hunting in the rain.
John
search .22 reloaders. they had a cap making tool and priming compound.
$4.99 here for caps.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |