same MSC company, but a bunch cheaper off fleabay ...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Made-in-USA...LH_TitleDesc=0
same MSC company, but a bunch cheaper off fleabay ...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Made-in-USA...LH_TitleDesc=0
That is a good price Rob.
I cut a lot of my wads from one gallon ice cream buckets the kids save for me that is a very good soft resin that are a little thinner at around .040" thick and some brands are around .036" If I feel I need a thicker wad I just double them, but they work just fine with just one making a good seal and good upset filling the grooves.
That is a really good price Rob.
Lead pot, thanks for the thoughts about a hard wad. In fact I ordered some cork to make wads out of and was thinking of trying them over the .060 LDPE wad to further cushion the blow so to speak.
Don, good idea about shooting today’s load some more. If the groups hold up it will be a good base line and not a fluke.
BTW the group was shot at 100 yards and the rest was on the forend and not the barrel. I sprinkled talcum powder on the barrel but no “nodes” appeared, the talc wound up being evenly distributed along the top of the barrel.
G’night, Richard
Rest your barrel on the sticks about 4-6 inches back from the muzzle or immediately in front of the forearm. Don't worry about the "nodes", a bullet traveling at 1200ish fps is going to put different vibration than beating on the thing with a hammer... Having the sticks adjusted to a natural height (meaning when you're in the gun your grip feels comfortable and you don't have to move your head and the sights up or down but very slightly to get the target centered) is probably more important than finding the "nodes"
Long range rules, the rest drool.
. Here are just a few of mine. I’ll try to get some pics this weekend of my paper but it is usually shredded up so throughly I can’t find much of it at all. Most of it is blown away in the wind. Since this picture was taken over a year ago I have shortened my patches but I was getting fliers every now and then which it looks like you might have a small flier but that should still do alright on the silhouette range. Even with that little flier that’s still a pretty good group. A shorter patch may help those fliers That is IF you have fliers. If you don’t then I wouldn’t worry to much about it but it wouldn’t hurt to try. I am using a thinner paper than you are also so that may play into it a little
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Last edited by ian45662; 08-01-2018 at 07:49 AM.
When I test alloy or just shoot on a rainy day I get out in the shed and shoot These remnants are typical of my patches using 75 or 100 % cotton onion skin paper, or even 25% cotton .0018 to .0020" paper. Using a soft vellum translucent tracing paper I find more of the inner wrap cut but like what your seeing. But you want to find the confetti right in front of the rifle not on the target backer.
Attachment 224782Attachment 224783Attachment 224784
Thanks Lead pot, all my patches were just a few feet in front of the muzzle.
Don, I free floated the bbl on my Browning. Before the forend was very tight to the bbl. I shimmed the two forend screws at the hanger .015 to clear the forend from the bottom bbl. flat. I saw videos of Dave Gullo shooting off the forend, so decided to give that a try. I need to make up some cross sticks. I think resting on the cross sticks close to the muzzle may give a steadier support.
Regards, Richard
Richard, shooting from the bench using a front rest, resting off on the forearm is the best way. You can build benchrest cross sticks that will simulate shooting off of prone or sitting sticks.
I wish wrist rests were legal in bpcrs, as they are in bptr. I like to use a wrist rest shooting bptr.
Long range rules, the rest drool.
I made my bench sticks up basically the same as my cross sticks as to rest strap and adjustments. The base is 2 1x 4 maple pieces spaced 1" apart. My only problem with the bench sticks is I tear up my right elbow if I forget a towel to lay on the bench top. They work very well for me and I actually use them more than my heavy front rest and sand bags now.
My paper patch confetti is always close to the muzzle when recovered. Some days with the right breeze it ends up on the bench even. Some of my rifles turn the outer wrap into confetti others it all is confetti. My CPA 40-65 with Douglas barrel I have yet to recover a under wrap. its all turned to confetti. My 1 badger barrel is the same. The green mountain mc gowen and pedersoli barrels all turn the outer into confetti and inner intact with base fold over. Im using Seth Cole paper or onion skin (?) currently.
Don, I’m not familiar with a “wrist rest”! Is that we’re the back of the non trigger hand is on the rest and gripping the forend?
I’m not getting confetti, maybe because my paper is on the thick side at .0019
Regards, Richard
Yes a wrist rest is similar to a bench rest front rest, and you hold the forearm in a gloved hand.
Long range rules, the rest drool.
Oh! OK like a hi power rifle with glove and sling...thanks Don.
Regards, Richard
. This is pretty much all the paper I get. I also get strips like confetti but just a slight breeze carries them off. You tried to take a picture it in the grass but they were so spread out I would have to get the phone to far away to see it even after shooting at 10 rams and taking 5 sighters.
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Last edited by ian45662; 08-04-2018 at 06:24 PM.
note that if too close to the muzzle, recoil can have a way of slapping the barrel off the sticks. when you find a spot that works you can add a strip of tape at the point for location consistency.
i made up a simple bench cross sticks that i can clamp to the bench if need be ... there are adjustments on both the base and sticks ...
Those bench sticks look good. I may have to knock together a set. Right now I’m making a new butt stock as the factory original is too long and too long a LOP. The stock pull is 13 3/4 and with recoil pad way to long. I need about 13 inches.
Possibly less resistance in the bore? Just a guess.
Be a little careful with short patches. There was a time several years ago when there was a lot of talk on the Shiloh forum that short patching was the way to go so I gave it a try. They shot well, but not any better than patched to the start of the ogive for me. They did leave a little bit of lead in the bore so I stopped doing that.
Chris.
if short patching leads to leading, that ain't for me even if the shorter paper is more accurate.
It was actually pretty enlightening. The load did not lead when I wiped with a mixture of water + oil, but as soon as I tried it with pure water as a wiping solution then I noticed it. Not a lot, but during cleaning tight patches would come out with a little bit of grey. I stopped the practice after that.
Chris.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |