I separate them with a colander
also getting off the excess powder
I separate them with a colander
also getting off the excess powder
I used to separate them through a hole-punched paper plate, but since they have to be grasped and stood up anyway, I now just fish them out of the Parkay #5 with the little needlenosed pliers from the BB/powder mix. It works fine for me: YMMV.
Life Member NRA.
Member: RWVA.http://www.appleseedinfo.org/smf/
Member: WRSA http://westernrifleshooters.blogspot.com/
Founder: Guns of the Golden West (Show group).
Founder: Nosehills Gun Club.
Founder: IPSC in Alberta.
Retired from Instructing, and just about everything else!
Gmps has motivated me to search out the "best #5 Container in the World"
Dollar Store was a bust but right next store is wally world
found this which is #5 recycle. Has a pretty good locking lid and largest diameter I've seen.
If it leaks I plan to run a bead of hot glue around the top when the container and top meet
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays...3=3297&veh=sem
NRA Life
USPSA L1314
SASS Life 48747
RVN/Cambodia War Games, 2nd Place
^ The Eagle has farted
so you learn something even if the experiment is a failure
top leaked--not bad but some powder gets out each time
didn't do any better than Gmps' SOGO container (see first post)
will hold plenty of bullets but then gets too heavy (for me)
tried the SOGO at the same time and much better coating
wally world has it back. Yes, I did wash it out and looks like the day I got it
. . . and the quest continues . . .
NRA Life
USPSA L1314
SASS Life 48747
RVN/Cambodia War Games, 2nd Place
@ new containers from the dollar tree:
the first one is a nice size, works well and is 2 for $1 BUT you need to tape it up before you use it or it will crack
the second is similar to the SOGO but the lid snaps in place.$1 ea and does a great job.
1 part PPG White 1/2 part flame red
rolling them on a towel to break loose any stuck together
I always us asbb because the guys that pioneered this had great success with them. I pull the bullets out with forceps or long tweezers, drop them into a jig nose first, goes pretty fast. Then invert into a wire basket for cooking. This allow me to do 400-500 a pop in a 2 rack 12" pizza oven.
EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
NRA Cert. Inst. Met. Reloading & Basic Pistol
Not all ASBB's work, YMMV
I like the rubbermaid square ( for sandwiches). Stack well on the shelf and tops hold really tight.
Retired Redleg
I came into this world kicking and screaming covered in someone else's blood, I don't mind going out the same way.
I just buy number 5's at the dollar store. You can either get a 2pk of zip locks that end up cracking when you really get your tumbling on or they have some big heavy duty ones that have blue and green lids on that are about half gallon size.
So far I've been using a large cool whip container with pretty good results. That is, once I switched to Eastwood powder. The Harbor Freight powder I was using would barely stick to the bullets. Can't wait for my order from Smoke 4320 to show up.
somebody on another forum says that he bakes the powder coating on like you do...boolits just laying all willy nilly on a mesh tray.
After so many minutes of baking in his toaster oven, he pulls the mesh tray out and dumps the boolits into a bucket full of water.
His boolits don't get stuck together and the water quench like "freezes" the powder coat solid.
I've tried a few different types of containers. My favorite are circular Snap Lock. Small and medium. One time the bottom of a Glad screw top container gave way. I guess the weight of the lead was more than it could bear. HF red BBs and Boolits all over the garage. Probably was shaking too enthusiastically.
That motivated me to look for a sturdier solution. Thousands of boolits later, still going strong. I'm going to have to try that jig method that Fred mentioned.
This I still don't understand, Why are you shaking the container? swirling creates the static. I have coated thousands of pounds of boolits and have never shaken the container.
I dunno. Swirl to coat then shake up and down as was precisely described to me by the seller of the great powder that I use, Smoke4320. Swirl to coat/cling then shake up and down to knock off the excess. He described that method to me and it works great. Glad your method is working for you. A few different ways to get great results.
Sorry, I forgot to mention that ** I also dump the boolits into a colander and sift out the BB's removing the excess powder at the same time** Shaking can dent the lead and damage the containers. I can't/won't argue with smoke, just voicing my observations/experience.
I raided our tupperware shelf and tried out these
https://www.shopworldkitchen.com/tot...d/1109967.html
Worked really well, big enough for a good sized batch and the snap lid has kept the seal really well. No powder leakage or anything
Materials that Cause Static Electricity
https://www.school-for-champions.com...m#.W-GzS5NKiUl
Moderate (+) charges
Lead (A surprise that lead would collect as much static electricity as cat fur)
Moderate (−) charges:
Polyurethane
Polyethylene (like Scotch Tape) Pull Scotch Tape off (+) surface and it will become charged
Polypropylene
Most (−) charges
Teflon (Greatest tendency of gathering electrons on its surface and becoming highly negative (−) in charge)
I guess we need to spray the inside of our containers with Teflon
Last edited by Grmps; 11-06-2018 at 11:45 AM.
Just found a crack at the bottom of one of my ziploc containers, guess I got a little carried away with the up-down up-down. Work well otherwise.
Mystery solved on my blue bowl
Combination colander and container for separating unpopped popcorn kernels
https://patents.justia.com/patent/D468168
still, haven't found it but I now know what it is.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kernel-Katc...-/181997551643
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Kernel+ka...ag=20140002-20
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |