So, how would "pan lubing" help me with forcing the cast bullet through the sizing die? Or are you suggesting that I pan lube, which I am unfamilier with, and then push the cast bullet through the sizing die that I have for the RCBS LAM-II? Maybe nose first using a flat ended rod of some sort?
I am not familiar with how your sizer works so I can't help ya there.
I did not know you are unfamiliar with panlube, but it is not too hard to do. I guess I am just used to it now by the doing of it for some of my boolit designs, and I offered it as an option thinking you might be familiar with it as well, (my mistake thinking that, it appears) & by pan lubing it could get ya by so you could shoot some of them, like I mentioned in the earlier post. Same way if your sizer was broken for some reason.
Anyway, never mind then. Forget I mentioned it. I was just offering some suggestions to try to help out with some options until you were able to use your sizer. ( looks like I made a mistake there as well. I will keep my trap shut now.)
G'Luck regardless.
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Which top punches do you have for a bullet, 38 cal or smaller?
Lyman #346 fits the RN 7MM bullet so might be very close to the nose of the 356-102-1R. At worst it will leave a slight ring on the ogive of the nose. If you have some JB weld or epoxy, you can clean the cavity of the punch place a small dab of expoxy in the nose, put the punch in the lube sizer and put some release agent on the nose of the bullet and partly size the bullet and leave the handle down until the epoxy sets up firmly. Then remove the punch from the press and clean off the excess and go size some bullets. There is a sticky on this or just do a site search and you can probably find a number of methods of making a temporary alteration to an existing punch to get you by until you get the correct one. Dusty
I compared the Lyman #346 with one of my newly cast LEE 102 grain bullets and it does seem to fit pretty well. So, instead of waiting all the way until Monday and running out to Grafs to purchase the #311 Lyman top punch, I think after I spend half the day casting more of these I will put some of them through the RCBS LAM-II using the Lyman #346 top punch and 0.355" sizing die and see how the loaded cartridges fit in the barrel. Thanks for your help again Dusty.
I do not use a RCBS sizing die, but I do use a Lee push through sizer with a Lee factory crimp die, and like mentioned earlier, the factory crimp die should size the loaded round down to fit any .380. It works pretty good. I could care less about the crimp it puts on, but I definitely like it sizing the entire round. Might be worth looking into if what you're doing doesn't work out.
I have the 102gr as well. I just use Liquid Alox TL on the bullets...and the LEE push through sizer die. I never have any leading with the 380. Its such a short barrel and lower velocity, I don't believe there is a need for a hard or grease lube. I just don't think you need to spend all that time filling the lube groove...Tumble Lube is so easy you can get a batch of 250-500 done in about 10-20 minutes (lining them up on wax paper to dry overnight) I drop a 1/2 teaspoon of powdered mica in my container and shake for the storage to take care of the LA stickiness.
It works for me.
redhawk
The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
Not all who wander....are lost.
"Common Sense" is like a flower. It doesn't grow in everyone's garden.
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Wow! You can apply the Liquid Alox TL on your bullets and size 500 of them in 20 minutes? I am not even sure I can handle that many bullets in 20 minutes let alone size and lube them. I will need to look into this and if it works out I definitely need to get rid of this old fashion way of sizing and lubing on my antique RCBS equipment. Where do I get instructions on how to do this since I have never heard of this before. Is it something new? But what is this LA stickiness thing you talk about? Is it a problem? I don't want to handle sticky bullets during the loading operation?
Run your bullets through a LEE sizer then lube them with Liquid Alox.....Liquid Alox is made by LEE....I have mine thinned down 65% with 35% mineral spirits. Put your bullets in a container, add your LA 65/35 mix and shake well. Put them out on Waxed paper to dry overnight. That's about all there is to it. Once they dry they will be a little tacky. Put them in another container and add the mica powder. It removes the tacky feel when you handle them. It also keeps your dies from getting a build up of the lube.
Its super easy...like I said...it works for me.
redhawk
The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
Not all who wander....are lost.
"Common Sense" is like a flower. It doesn't grow in everyone's garden.
What doesn't kill you, makes you stronger...or mutates...then tries to kill you again!
If more government is the answer, then it was a really stupid question. - Ronald Reagan
Now...all that said...I only use this method with my pistol bullets. I use cookie cutter method of lubing my rifle bullets. There is nothing wrong with the RCBS equipment for lubing bullet grooves...but for pistol...I chose to go the easy way with LEE LA and mica. The 20 min I talked about is only for the lube process...it does take a little longer to run that many through the push sizer die.
redhawk
The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
Not all who wander....are lost.
"Common Sense" is like a flower. It doesn't grow in everyone's garden.
What doesn't kill you, makes you stronger...or mutates...then tries to kill you again!
If more government is the answer, then it was a really stupid question. - Ronald Reagan
Well thank you for this information redhawk. After working with these little tiny 102 grain pistol bullets and putting them through the LAM-II I thought that maybe there might be an easier way to do this. And I had about ruled out casting my own bullets for the 32 ACP. At 75 grains I thought I better just drop that idea and load commercially made bullets. Or play with my 44 MAG instead of these little tiny guns where I loose half my brass on firing.
Sure thing...there are many Liquid Alox "recipes" out there...but the LEE Alox 65/35 works for me...you might want to look into the 45/45/10 sometime...its what I plan to try when I run out of LEE Alox. Just do a search here...you'll find it under 45/45/10.
redhawk
The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
Not all who wander....are lost.
"Common Sense" is like a flower. It doesn't grow in everyone's garden.
What doesn't kill you, makes you stronger...or mutates...then tries to kill you again!
If more government is the answer, then it was a really stupid question. - Ronald Reagan
If you have an extra nose punc you can modify it to the leed bullet with a little J*B weld epoxy. coat a bullet with 2 coats of wax and let cure build up the end of the punch with tape to the dia of your bullet and a few layers of tape aroun that to make a "tube" to accept the bullet. coat just the tape with wax. Mix J*B and drip a small amount into the nose cavity push bullet into place and clamp, let cure when removed file end flat and smooth remove sharp edges and you have a form fitted nose punch.
You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.
Yes...very true...
@DonMountain....you just want the bullets to look wet...the LEE Alox TL just needs a real light coating to be effective. And you can lube them multiple times if you don't get full coverage. (just skip the mica powder in between coats) For 250 bullets...try 3/4 - 1 teaspoon to start with. Once you get the right amount...you'll know what you're looking for. Just the "wet" look....no brown color as dondiego said.
redhawk
The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
Not all who wander....are lost.
"Common Sense" is like a flower. It doesn't grow in everyone's garden.
What doesn't kill you, makes you stronger...or mutates...then tries to kill you again!
If more government is the answer, then it was a really stupid question. - Ronald Reagan
I tumble lube everything, including rifle loads. I have one load for 30-06 that is 2150 FPS (chronographed), and I get zero leading with liquid alox. Proper fit with the bullet is a big factor, but the only thing I get any leading with is the 9MM, and that is a different problem all together.
You can go on E-Bay and get a big jug of this stuff for a lot less than the LEE liquid alox, but even their small bottles seem to last forever.
I am back to work on reloading the LEE Cast projectiles (356-102-1R) 102 grain supposedly designed for the 380 that I cast about 2 weeks ago. I put them through the RCBS LAM-II with a 355 sizing die to size and lubricate. And today started loading them with 2.8 grains of W-231 powder. After seating each bullet in the barrel, I discovered that I still had the same problem with about 20% of them not seating all the way when I dropped them in. Certain cases (Blazer) would not even come close to fitting. So I measured the bullets after sizing and discovered that they come out of the 355 sizing die at 0.356" to 0.357" in diameter, the same as the purchased powder coated bullets and produced the same results when dropping them in the barrel. The Winchester factory loads are always 0.002" to 0.003" in diameter smaller than what I can achieve. So, how do I size these cast bullets down to 0.354"? I have never noticed that much spring back of a bullet after sizing it.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |