OK, biggest question I have is where you got/how did you make that brass hull?
Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.
Keep after them "GOODSTEEL", I want to find out about those cases also...!
Wish I had known about this project. I have a 10-bore double SS. I have a couple of the British Paradox Rifle slugs from a gentleman in the UK who used to make molds.
I wish someone here in the US would offer a single cavity mold. I have a round ball mold.
[QUOTE=GhostHawk;4182276]https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categ...-SHELL-10-2-78
I remember finding these years ago for $6 each but they are only 2 7/8" long. His looks a lot longer. I have an old 10 gauge Charles Daly side by side from the late 1800's that I was on a hunt years ago for these...but never bought any. Still looking for hammers for it.
[QUOTE=Tripplebeards;4182346]Ah, the Charles Daly Prussian? I've got mine, as Jeff Cooper used to say before he found a manufacturer to adopt his Scout rifle concept. It's damascus, but should be strong enough for good performance with black powder loads, and it does have the advantage of being about innocent of choke. I also bought a single barrelled W&C Scott hammer gun, with a heavy Damascus barrel, half-hoping that it was intended as a ball gun for the African or Indian trade, which would do fine for the sort of shotgun work I had in mind, but it turned out to be about ¾ choked mean with the 1875 to 1887 "Not for ball" warning.
I replaced my Daly's hammers with investment castings from Peter Dyson. You have to do drill and file the hole for the tumbler. They are in the unhardened condition, and you can reduce or increase the throw slightly. I did it with a large pair of circlip pliers. They are very good on export of anything uncontrolled by laws , which for us means anything that doesn't bear breech pressure. I actually managed tnbo steer an American correspondent in the direction of buying from them a hammer for a Callisher and Terry capping breechloader, which must sound about the most unlikely thing to find parts for.
https://www.peterdyson.co.uk/
[QUOTE=Ballistics in Scotland;4182367]
I’ll have to post some photos of it. Don’t know a lot about it. The serial number dated it back to around 1890’s. I bought it in a yard sale for $40 about ten years ago. It was pretty rusty. I cleaned and shined it up. It functions fine now but one hammer is missing and the other is brazed. I always wanted to get it fixed, load some black powder loads for it and harvest a turkey and a couple of coyotes.
Found some old photos I posted on line years ago...
The water table has either FR or FB stamped on it,the number 65 on the barrel, and 396 stamped on both the barrels and receiver.
I’m really dieing to get a pair of hammers on it and learn how to reload some brass black powder lead B.B. loads for it.
Sorry to hijack the thread. Here is a link of some other pics ...
http://www.predatormastersforums.com...Number=1248552
These were the hammers I was looking at. Just called Dixie gun works and they told me I have to measure from the hole where the hammer mounts up to the action to where it strikes the firing pin to order the correct hammers? Now I’m just down to finding a missing screw that hold it in place...
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product...oducts_id=6500
Found these as well...
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product...oducts_id=6521
Last edited by Tripplebeards; 10-20-2017 at 12:59 PM.
That certainly looks identical to mine, but the Charles Daly Prussian guns, although they never bore any name but Daly's, were made by Heinrich Lindner of Suhl, and had a stamped mark of two crossed pistols and either a crown or the letters HAL. I believe this changed from one generation of the Lindners to the the next. It is possible that other manufacturers were used, and the general style of shotguns was often very closely copied. I have heard Christopher Shilling (the maker of my 1878 Reichsrevolver) mentioned. It wouldn't be a Belgian manufacturer without Belgian proofmarks, though, as proof was mandatory in Belgium, but not in Germany.
The use of the name Prussian doesn't prove much. I don't believe it was ever written on the guns, although Charles Daly might have used it the publicity. Prussia was an independent kingdom until 1871, and thereafter the largest state of the German Empire, with which it had a relationship of great and fluctuating complexity. It was regarded as the main engineering area of Europe, and the name might have been used at about any time. They stir each other up with real or imaginary regional characteristics to this day. I used to know twato German sisters in the 80s who called the boyfriend of one of them a Prussian, and it was only half-joking.
I don't know what the other markings you mentioned mean. My own has J.W. (with full stops) on both barrels. You have to remember that firearms production in Europe was more complicated the an in the US. I don't know about Prussia, but in Birmingham and Liège a few well-known names made their own products from start to finish, but more guns were assembled and fitted from components made by subcontractors, outworkers, home workers, people who rented a bench and sold much of their products to their hosts, etc. etc. Practically all American damascus barrels were made from Belgian tubes. 65 is sometimes used for 2½in. chambers, but that is an unlikely length for a 10ga.
Despite what is sometimes said, the Daly Prussians were sound but not the supreme quality shotguns some times stated. I think it would take a good grade in good condition to make the $2500 mentioned. Mine, without hammers or forend, lightly pitted in the bores and a bit loose, was a fraction of that. Someday I plan to tighten it up with a larger diameter hinge pin. That is one of the benefits of not having a top extension to the rib.
Thanks for the info, SIR.
Shot a few more of each slug design today. Both worked well and stayed stable and true punching a nice round hole at short to long range.
3D models I used to created the mold :
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2613598
I may now look for a maker to make an Alu version.
What is the longest range you have shot them at so far?
Last edited by BigMrTong; 04-08-2018 at 06:21 PM.
Congratulations BigMrTong! That's some really nifty looking projectiles! 200 meters even!
I regret ever selling my 10ga a couple of years ago. But considering how many projects I can't finish now maybe that's a good thing
I'm the gun totin, meat eatin', BIBLE readin', redneck conservative your mother always warned you about.
" Holes kill stuff. "
A while ago I mentioned http://www.peterdyson.co.uk/, who supplied my pair of Hollis hammers, ML16, with a 35mm.throw. But if they don't suit, I have found but not dealt with another firm, who look promising, and can make components (at a price probably) from your own wax models.
https://www.blackleyandson.com/
You have to drill and file the hole for the tumbler square. They are soft, and don't really need hardening. You can, if necessary, squeeze the throw a little smaller on most of their designs. If you need to stretch it a little, you could probably string it up with several turns of Kevlar cord, once you have a hole, insert a stick between the strands, and twist it like a tourniquet to pull it both ways.
Here is another firm I haven't dealt with but who look promising, and can make components (at a price probably) from your own wax models.
https://www.blackleyandson.com/
Last edited by Ballistics in Scotland; 04-10-2018 at 02:15 PM.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |