I just got a 10 in contender barrel and looking for a good cast boolit for deer. Any suggestions?
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I just got a 10 in contender barrel and looking for a good cast boolit for deer. Any suggestions?
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Rcbs 200 or one of the clones shoots very well in my 14 inch. I have a Lee 2 cavity, casts on size, meaning not touched by my .360 sizer. My NOE is just right
“You don’t practice until you get it right. You practice until you can’t get it wrong.” Jason Elam, All-Pro kicker, Denver Broncos
I "had" and the key word here is HAD a Lyman mold for a 357 cal GC SWC that dropped about 210-215 with WW alloy . I used it with very good luck in a Marlin 1894CB 24" in 357 MAG as well as a Dan Wesson 8" 357 MAX . I cannot remember the number of the Lyman mold sorry to say !
Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines
6pt-sika, that sounds like the 358627
http://www.lasc.us/FryxellLyman358627.htm
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Lyman #358429, have used it for years, the mold is made by NOE.
Rafe
Last edited by Rafe Covington; 03-11-2018 at 09:54 AM.
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I suspect you're correct . As it seems to me when I got that mold I was told it had originated for the IHMSA guys to shoot in the 357 MAX much the way the Lyman 429649 mold I still have was brought out for the silhouette guys to use in the 44 MAG and 445 Super Mag .
I got that 35 cal mold from a friend who wanted me to use it in a 35 REM lever action although I never did . Just in 357 levers and 357 MAX revolver .
Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines
that 210 gr SWC might be okay, but if it was me I'd go with the 190 Ranch Dog or one of the 180 WFN bullets.
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The Lee RCBS 358-200 Clone 6 cavity makes really good Boolits. Best money I spent in molds to date. I have two and cast piles of them.
You never know how you rank amongst men 'til you have seen what will break another man.
The original "Bluejay" US Army/ US Navy 1945-1970.
For the money, I will second the Lee C358-200-rf as it works quite well. I also use the NOE SC359-190-RF and the Lyman 358156. All have worked well in my Herrett barrel.
Intresting that you mention that !
I had original test molds for the Ranch Dog 359-180GC and the 359-190GC . I used the 180 in a Marlin 336ER in 356 WIN to kill a deer and the 190 in a Marlin 336D 35 REM also to plunk a poor unsuspecting deer . I also used the RCBS 35-200 in a very nice circa 1952 Marlin 336SC 35 REM .
Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines
What follows here is a little off-topic, but I add it as a "FWIW" notation.
I have had long association with both 357 Magnum and 44 Magnum revolvers, and have always enjoyed their capabilities and flexibility. Off and on, I have owned a couple 44 Magnum lever guns--Marlin 94 variants. The Micro-Groove rifling and its VERY slow twist rate did not impress me with either accuracy or flexibility. The 1-38" twist rate was optimized for the 200 grain bullets in the 44/40 WCF, so 240-250 grain bullets started out with a handicap right from the git-go.
About 6 years ago I scored a Miroku/Winchester Model 1892 carbine in 44 Magnum, and it has been an utter delight from Day 1. It features a more realistic 1-24" twist rate, and immediately impressed me with some EXCELLENT accuracy using 240 grain jacketed soft points (Speer, IIRC) and with Lyman #429244 SWCs sized and checked at .431". These were full-value loadings, too--both bullets were tried with 24.0 x WW-296 and with 21.0 x 2400. This seemed to augur well for at least middleweight 44 bullets, so I ordered an Accurate #43-250C to feed the M-92 with. This is a gas-checked round flat-nose with fairly tight ogive radius and 70% meplat, a design meant to feed in leverguns smoothly and to go into revolver charge holes easily. Indeed, it does--and it shoots very well in the bargain. This bullet is displacing both Lymans #429421 and #429244 as my go-to 44 Magnum full-tilt bullet. From the rifle and its open irons, it will group inside 2.5" at 100 yards while running 1800-1825 FPS. 2400, H-110, and WW-296 are the usual fuels. Velocity from the 5.5" Redhawk is in the 1375 FPS ZIP Code. I am entirely happy with this combination.
On to the 357 Magnum. I have not owned a 357 Magnum rifle of any sort until about a year ago. I wanted another Miroku/Rising Sun Win 92, but they were unobtainium for close to 3 years. (I just missed one locally in June 2016). Marlin seems to have stopped production of their 1894C variants in 357, as well. I found a Henry Big Boy/blued steel locally last year, and I have been VERY happy with this rifle. About 500 rounds in, I can say without reservation--the heavier the bullet, the better it shoots. I have some 182 grain round flat-nose/gas check bullets from a Lee Group Buy the site did a while back, and sized to .358" these will group VERY well at 50 and 100 yards and leave the muzzle at 1775-1800 FPS. I think there is room for further acceleration in both the Henry and in the Ruger BisHawk (1400-1425 FPS, 7.5" barrel), but given how well these loads shoot (2400 and AA-9 powders) I don't see the point of pushing things.
Final conclusion--give those heavy-for-caliber revolver bullets a try, in both sidearm and saddle gun barrels. They will pleasantly surprise you.
I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.
Did you use 357 Mag cases with the 182 grain bullet?
What COAL did you use?
I have just started trying to use a C358-200-RF (Lee) and the bullet is set real deep in order for it to chamber @1.590" COAL.
Looks Like I am going to try a 38 spcl. case from what I've read from others.
Thanks
It works in a 357 Magnum case. Get a Lee Collett Crimp Die for 357 MAG to hold it in place.
Last edited by bluejay75; 03-14-2018 at 06:03 PM.
You never know how you rank amongst men 'til you have seen what will break another man.
The original "Bluejay" US Army/ US Navy 1945-1970.
Recently got a 357 Herrett barrel myself. I haven't loaded anything for it yet. Got some brass ready and have 358429, 358156 and 358311 I'd like to try in it. Thing that's actually holding me up is finding a proper forend for a 10" round barrel.
I will say that the Ranch Dog 190gr. .359 and the Lyman 358-429 170gr. have been my go to for heavy warmish .358 bullet shooting. They both do real well in my experiences with them.
You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.
arlon
358156 performed best (precision) in a 112" barrel I had.
Unfortunately I have no notes on the loading
I had hopes that the LAR45 180 RNFP GC was going to be it, but never found "the load" with the limited testing I did.
Amendments
The Second there to protect the First!
NOE copy of the rcbs 35-200 with pins .
You get a better meplat. Choice of making deep hp, cup point or FN all from 1 mold
49/49/2 deep hp at 1500-1700 fps is a great deer killer
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |