There are plenty of fastener vendors on line so you don't have to go anywhere to get what you need.
EDG
[QUOTE
Being cheap is what re-loaders are known for...er using something we already have.
[/QUOTE]
Hey, I resemble that statement.... Merry Xmas All... Dale
Moosegooser - Easier to show than tell & I'm just trying to enjoy this holiday.
Definitely Tacoma Screw places around here; Don't get the discount I used to get any more, but used to their places. Tacoma isn't THAT far south of here, really.
A friend of mine saw my post here, and sent me this link to a video.. I convinced him to ditch locking, lockrings long ago.. I m not trying to convert anyone here.. Just putting out something to think about. In this video, the author talks about internal set scres on lock rings and what he does with them. He also shows what he does like in a lock ring. Many here have agreed with him,and replace their rings with a similar type... But,,,,, Notice the segment in Video when he talks about measuring concentricity, and what to do if you don't end up with a concentric case after it has been sized... He talks about ALINGMENT of die to ram, and suggests a way to help a person set the die "SQUARE" to the ram,,and then "LOCK" the ring down.... What the O_Ring under the unlocked locking does,,is AUTOMATICALLY Squares the die up, and , keeps the slack, (Backlash) in the thread, in the same direction. It allows a very smooth and precise method to adjust die down to get the proper headspace measurement. Once you get there ,you don't tighten anything,,,and the settings stays put.
I have also found thru extensive fiddling with accurately measuring headspace, and concentricity, that with concentricity issues, the most common problem is when the expander ball is pulled back through the case neck. If it,, (expander ball) isn't clean,, (In conjunction with the die) and polished, and lightly lubed, and that disregard of method, causes an uneven pull, making squaulking noises, or a considerable amount of force to complete the action,,, it stretches the sized shoulder away from the proper setting, and kicks the neck out of center,,, thus run out, and difficulty obtaining that minimal headspace number you are after.. Most reloaders don't check concentricity.. they are only concerned on making ammo that goes BANG,, and being able to place 10 shots on a small paper plate at 100 yrs.. Nothing wrong with that.. Your deer, elk,, or coyote wont know the difference..
Heres the video... if you are vaguely interested , pay attention to his comments as far as discovering a non concentric case after it has been sized,,and how he sugests to rectify the problem,,, then think about what the O-Rings do..
Again,,,, Not trying to change your religion.... just discussion..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpSNPY3zXfo
Last edited by Moosegooser; 12-25-2017 at 11:42 PM.
There's also the discussion of what to do with a Standard FL sizing die, and what to do with that expander ball stem during sizing..
also the best time to de-cap your brass,and how. Non conventional ways to utilize the prec]scion machined into your dies, to accomplish better ammo..and accuracy.
And if you aren't shooting over 300 yards, 99% of the people won't need to worry about that.
Varminting, you DO need to worry about it tho. Unless you like missing yotes and chucks...
.17 CCM At 100 yrds is fun too!
15 grain bullet,,,, 3500 FPS...
Interestingly, the 1/8" nylon balls I got are not letting the set screws get into the lock rings; Going to try tapping them with a hammer to flatten them somewhat. Evil auction site or Amazon, the fast sales place, had 100 cheap, for Tattooing (so I now have had ONE thing in my life related to Tattoos LOL) Tapping them should do it. If not, lead shot is next to try. Busy here catching up after being sick for TOO long.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#nylon-tip-set-screws/=1btwuz9 These are designed for this situation...
My Anchor is holding fast!
True. Just going to try the other first
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0154121
I just got these from Fastenal for 12 cents a piece, seems the ones at McMaster are about a buck ea. got 75 of them for under 8 bucks, enough to do all my dies.
Nice cost
I never tighten the set screw. I never set my dies. with every Reloading sessions. i do the entire Process over.
NRA Endowment Member
International Ammunition Association
New York, the Empire State Where Empires were Won and Lost
You dont mind them moving a bit during operation?
NRA Endowment Member
International Ammunition Association
New York, the Empire State Where Empires were Won and Lost
If its moving after locked, you have a problem. When I lock a die in my rcbs rc, its solid, not any bit of movement.
Redding, RCBS, Forster, Hornady, Lyman rings all work just fine, and they have their places. The only lock rings I don't use are Lee. When I have used Lee, I have flipped them over since that O-Ring never seems to keep things secure. And of course, there is no reliable provision to store the setting using Lee lock rings.
On progressive presses, RCBS and Lyman lock rings are best. I use a lock ring wrench to snug the lock rings, but don't use the set screws since there is no need. I don't like cross-bolt lock rings on the progressive press.
All of them work just fine for the single stage presses, and most of my dies are RCBS. I like to set them and forget them. The RCBS set screws can mess things up, but are pretty easy to use effectively with a deft touch.
Last edited by Taterhead; 03-10-2018 at 01:47 AM.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |