I can't answer your question about the hammer pressure but, an observation...that thing screams to be re-case hardened!!! Is that on the list? Leaving the hammer and breech block in the white would be a nice contrast.
I can't answer your question about the hammer pressure but, an observation...that thing screams to be re-case hardened!!! Is that on the list? Leaving the hammer and breech block in the white would be a nice contrast.
"In general, the art of government is to take as much money as possible from one class of citizens and give it to another class of citizens" Voltaire'
The common virtue of capitalism is the sharing of equal opportunity. The common vice of socialism is the equal sharing of misery
NRA Benefactor 2008
I think the reason behind the robust mainspring was to keep the hammer forward in case of a ruptured primer. they must have had some problems, so they also designed that unique gas vent in the breech block. Some of the later commercial Husqvarna r-blocks had "safety hammers", and my Larsens Vaabenforr rolling block also has an odd little safety hammer beside the big hammer.
On my 8mm the b-block is fitted so tightly that I don't think it would fire 100% of the time if I lightened the mainspring very much,but maybe one could after a few thousand rounds.
I've been told the heavy hammer pressure was designed to ensure the hammer didn't get caught on anything and cock the firearm. It also ensures a heavy strike regardless of any other issues. It is not necessary to be that heavy for what we use these guns for today.
I use my belt sander to remove width off the mainspring, but make sure I stay away from both ends of the spring. I also keep a can of water handy, and don't wear gloves while working the spring down. If I can't hold it while removing metal, it's getting too hot, so I cool it often. I also try the spring often during removal of metal, to see how it feels. Takes time to reinstall it and test, but it's the only way to know it's correct as I go.
I also remove the trigger return spring and make a new one from .045" piano wire to replace the flat spring. My reworked trigger springs give me about a 2.5 lb. trigger, and feel great with a lightened mainspring. Use a good oil on all the mating surfaces too. I like Kroil, and it alone will reduce felt pull on the trigger when applied.
Rollers are my favorite action for rifle builds, and for multiple reasons! First being so plentiful. Then the low price of good used military actions! Ease of swapping parts, and fitting parts. Only drawbacks are the occasionally eroded firing pin holes in breech blocks, and the occasional worn blocks that need work to align perpendicular to the bore. But there's no other old single shot action that's as reasonable to build a complete rifle on!
I'm getting a little worried guys. My mind is refusing to stop thinking about all the possible cartridges I can build these inexpensive RB to shoot. I'm thinking about getting a small battery if they avail themselves in Simpson's inventory for a 45 colt, 38 spcl, maybe even a 45-70 kurz.. Between the 30 WCF case and the 45-70 case you have a wealth of candidates.
You dogs! I had never heard of simpsons. The salesman said he would try to ship mine out tomorrow.
Some people live and learn but I mostly just live
The salesman didn't say his name. I plan on trying to shoot mine as is. It said the bore was fair. But I suspect it will end up as a 35 Krag.
Graf's has dies but too pricey for me. I'll just make my own. Looks like there are several options to make brass from if I can't find any. I love these old guns but never could afford one. I also love projects. I'm giddy as a schoolgirl!
Some people live and learn but I mostly just live
Congratulations Wolfer!
"Everyone has a plan, until they get punched in the face!" - Mike Tyson
"Don't let my fears become yours." - Me, talking to my children
That look on your face, when you shift into 6th gear, but it's not there.
Wolfer, many clichés and adage's are appropriate here; First step down a slippery slope, the camel's nose is in the tent....etc.....
"In general, the art of government is to take as much money as possible from one class of citizens and give it to another class of citizens" Voltaire'
The common virtue of capitalism is the sharing of equal opportunity. The common vice of socialism is the equal sharing of misery
NRA Benefactor 2008
Before anyone rebarrels one of the 12.7x 44 rifles, I would urge you to give it a fair shooting trial, because it is a very good cartridge which can be reloaded with 50-70 dies and slightly altered 50-70 cases. I bought one advertised with a "fair" bore , and used it to shoot a CBA 100yd record score, so they will shoot,even if the bore is not pristine. It kind of lobs them in, so I call it my "Swedish mortar"
I just picked up a No. 1 Remington RB that was converted to a 20 ga. shotgun a long time ago.
The way I could tell is if you remove the forend there is a dovetail cut on the bottomside of the barrel where it was once a rifle and was reindexed 180 degrees and rebored to 20 ga.
The gun functions fine as a shotgun and has a 30" barrel but has no choke so cylinder bore.
I am thinking of rebarreling it to 50-70 as I already have a barrel and have several other 50-70's and handload for it already.
Problem is I have a bunch of other project guns that need finished and I don't know if it would be worth more to leave it as a shotgun compared to a non original rebarreled short rifle ?
Does anyone have a opinion on the way they would go with this idea, Leave it as a shotgun or rebarrel it to a 50-70. The conversion would cost me very little except time .
Jedman
Jedman, if I were in your shoes, I'd leave it on the back burner for now, knowing it is still there for a rainy day and complete some of the other projects.
you don't even have to ask..........50-70gov. i have today's counterpart, 500 linebaugh in a 24" tc encore barrel.
excuse me for asking, what kind of pressure (p.s.i. or c.u.p.) does a rolling block handle?
i am asking if a 40-65 winchester with smokeless loads will work?
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |