So far my best has been Eastwood Ford Blue, two teaspoons of it in a plastic protein powder container, with a heavy handful of heads and swirl for 1-2 minutes. No BB's needed. Bake for 20 minutes at 375 degrees....perfect!
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So far my best has been Eastwood Ford Blue, two teaspoons of it in a plastic protein powder container, with a heavy handful of heads and swirl for 1-2 minutes. No BB's needed. Bake for 20 minutes at 375 degrees....perfect!
Does this powder coating stand up in rifles? Could I use the powder coat method vs let's say alox for smokless rifle chambering.
Not all spray powders are good for DT.Originally Posted by Littlewolf
Same question I have regarding PC-coated rifle bullets at velocities around 22-2400fps. Will the PC stand up to this velocity? My Carnuba Red Lube is rated for 2700fps but I've not gotten the accuracy with cast bullets and this lube with velocities past 2100fps.
My goal is to shoot cast lead at 200-300 yard NRA Highpower Matches without the smoke cloud from the standard lubes messing with my fellow shooters.
I Cast my Boolits, Therefore I am Happy.
Bona Fide member of the Jeff Brown Hunt Club
The PC will stand up just fine (to over 3,000), you just need to start paying more attention to the composition and hardness of the alloy
What alloy do you recommend for PC rifle bullets then?
I Cast my Boolits, Therefore I am Happy.
Bona Fide member of the Jeff Brown Hunt Club
I have a pound of Eastwood PC powders coming in the mail. 8oz of Hotcoat Powder High-Gloss Black and 8oz of Hotcoat White Gloss. So hopefully by this weekend, I should have some rifle and pistol bullets PCed by then.
I Cast my Boolits, Therefore I am Happy.
Bona Fide member of the Jeff Brown Hunt Club
HF red, 168gr GC, 2400 fps AR10. MOA @ 200. H.T. 4% Sb, 0.5% Cu.
Whatever!
excellent and thank you!
I Cast my Boolits, Therefore I am Happy.
Bona Fide member of the Jeff Brown Hunt Club
Primarily pistol bullets (.38 158gr SWC 9mm 120gr TC and 40 aliber 155gr SWC) with a single coat of powder before sizing through a Lee Sizer, but I did powder coat a supply of Lyman 311359 and Lee 311160 spirepoints for 30 caliber AR10 rifle work and some Herter 323170 (8x57 work) and Mihec 69gr .225 spirepoints for later use in an AR15 . Eastwood's Gloss Black powder is excellent! I did one initial coat for the rifle bullets and then after sizing and attaching a gascheck, I recoated the PC bullet with a second coat to ensure I have enough coverage for the bullet to travel down a rifle barrel without any lead stripping. 400F at 15 minutes was my cooking time for all my runs.
I Cast my Boolits, Therefore I am Happy.
Bona Fide member of the Jeff Brown Hunt Club
Might be my new favorite color.
Last edited by Grmps; 01-12-2018 at 08:02 AM.
hi guys..i went through the whole thread (11pages) ..someone correct me if i'm wrong,but from what i can se, am i right if i say that eastwood ford light blue is the best PC to use for a starter like me? i've found hi tek to be finicky to use,and the cost associated to messing a batch is what drives me toward the more simple shake and bake method...and i see that the eastwood ford light blue is highly praised....i see a lot of non eastwood products are working good, i'm no way saying eastwood is only way to go,but i want to keep things as simple as possible,and i shoot anything between 300-600 rounds a week,so i can't afford experimentation , my time is gold.....
Take a look at this guy he has excellent powders for shake and bake and he won't break the bank.
Lead bullets Matter
There are three kinds of men: The ones that learn by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence and find out for themselves. - Will Rodgers
I get excellent results with shake & Bake using Smokes Yellow/Green, Carolina Blue and Super Durable Clear, good solid coverage every time. I really don't have a favorite but if I wasn't into colors I would just get the clear and be done with it, it's just hard to mess up. Eastwood has good powders as well they just cost a bit more, I like their Med. Green and Maroon Red.
Eastwood chrome
Wow those look nice.Eastwood chrome
Lead bullets Matter
There are three kinds of men: The ones that learn by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence and find out for themselves. - Will Rodgers
Are those Eastwood Chrome all sprayed or did you tumble them?
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
ASBBDT
The chrome went on smoother/easier when I mixed in some silver -- 1/4 teaspoon silver to 1 Tablespoon of chrome
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...=1#post4298805
almost too pretty to shoot . . . almost
NRA Life
USPSA L1314
SASS Life 48747
RVN/Cambodia War Games, 2nd Place
OK so never used this stuff before but want to start casting again, .308 rifle and 9mm pistol.
I cast a LOT in the old days. I only sized the rifle bullets, mainly due to the gas checks.
So, can I get away with cast, powder coat, load and shoot or do I need to size the pistol bullets after coating? I guess the question is, how thick is the PC?
With the rifle bullets I can see a benefit to sizing after coating. I assume this means that I have to apply gas checks first (sizer?) and then PC. What about using flat base bullets without gas checks? Will the PC stand up to that? FYI, at one time I used to put a polyethylene wad under flat base, lubed rifle bullets. They worked up to 2000fps. If the PC bullets need that it would save a lot of steps vs using the gas checks.
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| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
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