After firing at least 3 or 4 empty shell casing are hard to remove form the cylinder.
It is cleaned and they are store bought ammo, Remington , no reloads.
Not sure how go forward.
After firing at least 3 or 4 empty shell casing are hard to remove form the cylinder.
It is cleaned and they are store bought ammo, Remington , no reloads.
Not sure how go forward.
What model S&W?
Old or new?
Under warranty or not?
New gun, under warranty, send it back to S&W with EMPTY brass and box end flap.
Older gun, shoot .38 Specials...
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Model
Don't know bought it from a retired Police 6 round 357 S&WOn the butt plate it has A-20, inside when I open the cylinder it has S6-7
Not under warranty I am not original owner. Was wondering if I can just buy a new cylinder. Not sure what the model is so that causes a problem to find the correct one.
Is gun blued or stainless? S6 doesn't ring any bells, they made a 66, 586, 486, the -7 is a change number, the A20 probably a rack number, is there a more full serial number, probably with a letter prefix, pictures would help.
You might be able to find a used cylinder off GunBroker, but S&Ws are hand fitted and the cylinder would need to be gunsmith oir factory fitted also...
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I looked closer it is 66-7
Some one suggested bore paste.
I even hooked up a cleaning brush up to a electric drill and tried to clean but still sticks.
The dreaded internal lock—a.k.a. Hillary Hole—began in 2002 with the 66-6, the Model 66-7 featured a two-piece barrel and more internal lock mechanisms. Smith & Wesson dropped the Model 66 from production in 2005. You might ask them if they could/would fix it.
The ENEMY is listening.
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Keep it to yourself.
I have a second hand S&W in their shop right now. Their customer service is pretty good for the most part. If they still have the parts, they may be able to address the issue.
Clean the chambers that you are having problems with using a .40 caliber bore brush and kroil or hoppies. It could be the previous owner shot some grungy .38's in it and the .357 cases are getting kinda stuck in the residue they left at the end of the chamber. The A 20 and s6-7 are just assembly numbers if your smith was made after 1964 it should have the model number on the inside of the frame just above the cylinders crane(hinge). Is it a blued or stainless gun? and what bullet weight are you shooting?
Ammunition clean of lubricant before firing?
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
Yes, use a .375 or .40 brush and lots of solvent or a mop wih JB bore paste. The model 66 is the stainless version of the blued model 19- the Combat Magnum.
Personally I would just shoot .38 Specials too.
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I have two 357 magnums. a model 66 Hog Hunter and a newer TRR8. I both cases if I shoot 38 specials with light target loads the area just in from of the case gets a build up of powder residue. I bought a cylinder cleaning reamer from Manson Reamers and take with us when we go to the range with them. With 357 loads there is no sticking if I clean the cylinder with the reamer. If the previous owner just shot 38 length cases the cylinder area right in from of when the shorter cases end the bores can be roughed up?
Leading from .38 Special target loads. Stainless loves to pick up lead fouling. It looks shiny, so it's sometimes hard to see.
if it is a used pistol clean the cylinders.
might try Lewis Lead Remover. Put enough mesh disks on to be tight in the cylinder
dunk in Kroil overnight and then LLR in a.m.
NRA Life
USPSA L1314
SASS Life 48747
RVN/Cambodia War Games, 2nd Place
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |