Go 400-425 for 20 minutes. Don't skimp on the temp and curing time.
Go 400-425 for 20 minutes. Don't skimp on the temp and curing time.
0811: I've been at this a while now and it is my opinion that clear powder coat works by far the best. It doesn't hurt to add a pinch of your favorite powder color so you can tell at a glance which have been coated. I bought a large amount of Cardinal powder and some Eastwood when I got started and it will most likely take a life time to use it all up. Just getting started I'd contact Smoke for his powder as I've never heard a complaint. Lots of different powders work fine and some are just ****. Think of all the other fine products Harbor Freight sells and you'll have your answer as to it's quality. Powder coating is tough as nails but it won't tolerate being scraped, make sure there is no sharp edge on any of your tooling. You'll get it, it's a great way to "lube" bullets. Gp
I haven't tried all of his colors but Carolina Blue seemed to work the best for me. That being said, they all gave 100% coverage and passed the hammer test. Tupperware and BB's get's it done!
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Who is or what is this "smoke" powder I keep hearing about? I have been PC for a year or two off and on sometimes I think its great and is working fine, other times im like I quit im going back to LLA LOL. I would love to try this "smoke" and ditch the cheap harbor ****.
Smoke is a PC vendor here. I think i would size some then coat them then maybe resize as a test. That would be a simple test that may answer some questions for you.
Ok so to resize them first I would need to lube them so they go smoothly through the resizing die especially if they are way over sized like they seem to be, another problem in itself lol. Maybe ill try case lube to resize the first time then clean them off with some acetone before powder coating.
I'm a Happy Clinger.
That kind of variation as the boolit drops from the mold needs to be addressed as mentioned.
Are you sizing before coating? I find it best to size, coat, size again. If you have a die problem I'd assume it would show up before coating as bad as those boolits look.
450 degrees is getting real close to hot enough to make your boolits possibly slump some. 400 is max.
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Several thing look like are going on. Looks like bullets that have one side of driving bands cleaned off are not centered when going through die or thr die needs polishing. I would polish, size before and again after pcing. You may be trying to reduce size too much in one operation.
Ill admit that when I sized the bullets that some did go up crooked, I was under the assumption that they would be straightened out/centered when entering the die, man Im dumb!! Now they were not totally crooked just not perfectly straight, Ill keep an eye on this now and be more careful.
If your using a Lee 6 cavity, don't squeeze on the sprue cutting handle at all, don't even touch it...pressure on that third handle will pry the mould open a bit.
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |