anyone using american pioneer powder in a 50 cal. flint lock , wonder how it performed etc .
anyone using american pioneer powder in a 50 cal. flint lock , wonder how it performed etc .
Performed? NOT! Maybe if one puts 10 grains of FFg down the barrel prior to loading Jim Shockey's American Pioneer Powder, then it MIGHT actually shoot your projectile. APP is not compatible with flint lock firearms unless primed and prior-loaded with a small amount real black powder!
Granules are really large and the synthetic powder is a moisture grabber.
Never had any luck with it, accuracy wise and hard to ignite also!
ok thx for reply // was kinda what i was thinkin it didnt work well in my inline either but i have 4 lbs so i thought i would see what every one else thought //
Offer them for sale locally for half-price. Or go buy an inline and bulk pistol / revolver ammo. You can buy 50-pk sabots cheap. Then find a place to shoot and have fun all summer-long, burning thru 64oz of that stuff.
In the past five years, my lawn spreader has distributed three jugs of powder on my lawn (American Pioneer / Pyrodex / 777). Just a few days ago, I donated 3/4s jug of Blackhorn 209 to a forum member.
In 2018, I will only use Aliant Black/Blue MZ (inline) and Goex powders (sidelock).
Last edited by GoexBlackhorn; 01-05-2018 at 11:27 AM.
if you leave it for any amount of time it turns into a solid can of unusable ?!. that happened to two cans that i had setting in a moisture free area. NO GOOD!
APP 3f seems to work okay in my C&B revolvers. Not the most blistering velocities, but accuracy is good and it's compressible! Very forgiving of minor overages in the chambers - I can still get the ball/boolit in. AND, not being true BP, I can use lubes meant for smokeless without the asphalt-like residue gunking up the bore. The .45 cal Lee 200gr REAL gets sized and lubed in my Lyman 4500 with Carnauba Red and it works fine. The heavier the boolit, the better it seems to work, and some compression is needed. No ignition issues so far. Fine for plinking and busting hedge apples.
Last edited by yeahbub; 01-05-2018 at 05:46 PM.
10-15 years ago I tried it in an Armisport 1842 (.69 rifled). Every third shot I had to pull the nipple and pick the stuff out of the ignition passage to get it go off.
For whatever reason the geometry, the lube and the burned powder always worked badly together and residue build up to shut her down.
Not saying it will ever happen to anyone else but it happened consistently with that powder and musket.
I've used it for years in caplocks in .45 and up with good results. Doesn't do well in the .32. I like that I don't have to lube and fouling is light.
I haven't tried that one but it seems all the subs can be difficult to light at times. One way to get rid of it is do like curator says & prime it by putting a few grains of BP down the barrel first. Not a great fix if you are hunting as it makes loading slower but it works. There is a new type of nipple on the market that uses a 209 shotgun primer. Pedersoli has one & there is somebody else that sells one. I have one that I have had a long time that uses a small pistol primer. I don't think it is on the market anymore. Works o.k. if you have plenty of time to reload. I have had problems with the spent primer getting stuck.
Democracy is two wolves and a
lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting
the vote. - Benjamin Franklin
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |